UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

Rockfax Description
Start on the slanting ramp and traverse up rightwards to the big rounded arete. Pull up this on its right-hand side. Eliminating the good holds on the arete is f7B. © Rockfax

Ticklists

The Black Circuit - Stanage , Peak Bouldering - bold-star Eastern-Grit sub 7s , Plantation sub 7as , Traversing round , Vladimir punterin , Peak boulders , Peak Bouldering Traverses: 6a-7a , All the boulders , The grit list , Grit ambitions , Peak 200 , Problems for a Pint-Sized Person , Carlos Projects , Peak Problems for Short Ladies , Peakish Problemos for People who may or may not be Punters , Rebs' boulder season wishlist , Pre-Font Ticklist , 2022 Goals , Winter Boulders 2022/23 , JDs Gritstone Guide , 2023 Winter Motivation , 3* 6s In The Peak , Problems to return to , Peak Boulders To Try

Feedback

User Date Notes
CaptainSpaghettiLegs 27 Feb, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very Dabby. Very overrated
βeta?
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βeta: Very Dabby. Very overrated
Jacka2813 28 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Anyone who takes a dabbed ascent of this needs to take a long hard look in the mirror. I am 6ft1 and managed to not dab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Anyone who takes a dabbed ascent of this needs to take a long hard look in the mirror. I am 6ft1 and managed to not dab.
bornconfused 26 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: first climb of the day - good warm up
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first climb of the day - good warm up
Zacharyticklesrocks 7 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Very good line for a boulder, Did it barefoot tho - more like 6A+
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very good line for a boulder, Did it barefoot tho - more like 6A+

Logged Ascents

1318 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 265 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 122
Votes cast 114
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Soloed
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Buttress Direct

Grade: f6C ***
(Stanage North)

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