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16m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning crack is jammed to a poor rest at the break. Build a bomb-shelter then make the crucial precarious layback moves up and left to reach a ladder of jugs. A great contender for your first grit E1, as this one won't be down-graded. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown Apr/1949.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs, Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket, Eastern Grit Jamming, The Peak: Past and Present, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, World Graded List, Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, AMC Uni Ticklist, 50 of the Best, MUMC Ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Brown & Whillans Stanage, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, 2017, Definitive *** Peak Grit, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50, Stanage Plantation, Classic Lobs, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, York University Students path to greatness, Dougs 2020 ToDo List, Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets., The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist, An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Jem's Time in the Peaks, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., So you think you’re a VS climber?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 6 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right.
ericinbristol 23 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic
ian bryant 2 Jan, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart
 
Show beta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 310
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 301
Votes cast 301
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Flying Buttress Direct

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)