Rockfax Description
The leaning crack is jammed to a poor rest at the break. Build a bomb-shelter then make the crucial precarious layback moves up and left to reach a ladder of jugs. A great contender for your first grit E1, and this one won't be down-graded. © Rockfax
FA. Joe Brown Apr/1949.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , Top 20 Gritstone UKC Wishlist Climbs , Top 25 UKC Wishlist Rock Climbs , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , Eastern Grit Jamming , The Peak: Past and Present , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , World Graded List , Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , AMC Uni Ticklist , 50 of the Best , MUMC Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Brown & Whillans Stanage , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , Stanage Plantation , Classic Lobs , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , York University Students path to greatness , Dougs 2020 ToDo List , Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets. , The Post-Lockdown Vanventure Ticklist , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Jem's Time in the Peaks , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E1 , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 100 Best Routes on Grit , The Wishlist Challenge , Ones to smash out! , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , Loz’ Peaks Wishlist , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , Peak grit , Eastern Grit E1s , Dewimpification , The Eal List , Original and best stanage extremes , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage 3 star E1s , Top 25 routes , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , UKC Gritstone Top 20 Wishlist Climbs , Stanage 1956 , UKC Guide to Dogging , Billy's List , Crack Climbing , Most Popular First E1 , 2025 UK Sending Season , Top 25 UKC Wishlist climbs (2024) , Fairly Safe Peak Grit Punter Classics , The Biscuit Dunkers 2025 list of routes to be done , Best E1s on Peak Grit , Grit trad tick list , *** E1 on Peak Gritstone , Eastern Grit E1s , Peak Crack Trad , Peaks Extremes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Simonroberts1985 | 6 Apr |
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βeta: Rested before crux on cam and after the crux on a nut, was too pumped as this is not my style of climbing at all, good route though. | ||
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βeta: Rested before crux on cam and after the crux on a nut, was too pumped as this is not my style of climbing at all, good route though. |
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| Ben12345 | 18 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Good climb not as hard as first thought from looking at the bottom it’s very nice when you reach the jug to shake off the arm pump. | ||
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βeta: Good climb not as hard as first thought from looking at the bottom it’s very nice when you reach the jug to shake off the arm pump. |
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| momo | 16 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: first E1, checked out on top rope before so I didn't have to take any falls | βeta? | |
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βeta: first E1, checked out on top rope before so I didn't have to take any falls |
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| slacky | 20 Apr, 2024 |
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βeta: Not clean this time but really enjoyed taking the fall, less cam faff and getting feet wide and being in balance next time. | ||
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βeta: Not clean this time but really enjoyed taking the fall, less cam faff and getting feet wide and being in balance next time. |
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| Gspot | 22 Sep, 2021 |
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βeta: At the crux, pocket to the right takes two fingers and is much more usable than looks from below. Frees up the left hand to reach up higher. | ||
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βeta: At the crux, pocket to the right takes two fingers and is much more usable than looks from below. Frees up the left hand to reach up higher. |
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| Ben Rowland | 7 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Nice, learning to jam helped, barn door move was fun:)) | ||
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βeta: Nice, learning to jam helped, barn door move was fun:)) |
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| Blake | 4 May, 2021 |
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βeta: These routes are looking a bit ruined now to me. Damaged cam placements, sugary damaged grit and polish. Queues of people taking repeated lobs of them both like indoor sport routes. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: These routes are looking a bit ruined now to me. Damaged cam placements, sugary damaged grit and polish. Queues of people taking repeated lobs of them both like indoor sport routes. |
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| Pythonist | 6 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right. | ||
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βeta: Perfect gear, and even for those of us that avoided jamming anything, it's a good 'n. Right is far better, though. E1 5b sounds exactly right. |
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| eric_in_cheddar | 23 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic | ||
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βeta: Harder than Right U, more sustained and knackering than Right U. Perfect gear all the way. A mega classic |
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| ian bryant | 2 Jan, 2003 |
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βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart | ||
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Show beta
βeta: easier and far less strenuous than its right hand counterpart |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Dead Banana Crack
Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stoney Middleton)