UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
The right arete of the left-hand tower then move out left and gird yourself for gritty shelving holds and a grim exit. A long-time HVS that has caught a few folks out over the years. Climbed on its right-hand side is an eliminate but probably worth HVS 5a. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1981.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage HVS Challenge

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User Date Notes
Cake 31 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: The obvious thing to do is put gear as high up as you can in the crack right of the arete from the ledge in the chimney. If it's not graded for this, it should be. Then go onto the front and there's decent gear soon. It shouldn't get E2 for this part. Then there are all sorts of disgusting green breaks with good gear to the top where the is a pretty hard move. Probably hard E1 and at least a star.
Show beta
βeta: The obvious thing to do is put gear as high up as you can in the crack right of the arete from the ledge in the chimney. If it's not graded for this, it should be. Then go onto the front and there's decent gear soon. It shouldn't get E2 for this part. Then there are all sorts of disgusting green breaks with good gear to the top where the is a pretty hard move. Probably hard E1 and at least a star.

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 12
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Five Finger Exercise

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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