UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
A great route up the frontal arete of the tower. It can be started direct by a jump, or by leaning in from the left from a pile of stones. Gear consists of a tiny cam or small wires in the diagonal crack at two-thirds height. Said to be around f7C. © Rockfax

FA. Robin Barker 1992.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Rock/18/A Boulder Primer , Consumed , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , 100 Worthwhile E7's , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , crimperE6 , Trad Lowballs

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Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 2
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Bouldered
Not Set
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
White Lines

Grade: E7 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

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