Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The widening upper crack is reached via a short action-packed jamming crack. The upper part is tricky to protect. The original left-hand start is a bit easier though gear is wanting. The face just right gives a smart f6A boulder problem start. © Rockfax
FA. Henry Bishop et al. c1914.
Ticklists
Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Professor_Professorson | 26 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Struggled to protect the very top, but the climbing was good and the gear below would have likely stopped a ground fall. Goes as a severe in the BMC guidebook | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Struggled to protect the very top, but the climbing was good and the gear below would have likely stopped a ground fall. Goes as a severe in the BMC guidebook |
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| Dean.p.92 | 20 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: feel sorry for anyone who thinks this is 2 stars | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: feel sorry for anyone who thinks this is 2 stars |
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| Jimbo C | 16 Sep, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good jams at the bottom. Had an awful grovel up the wide crack which my 2nd annoyingly avoided by finding some holds I missed, damn. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good jams at the bottom. Had an awful grovel up the wide crack which my 2nd annoyingly avoided by finding some holds I missed, damn. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Pillar Ridge
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Laddow)