Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Climb the corner-crack of Wall End Crack Direct then take the sloping ramp to the foot of twin flakes. Climb the left-hand of these by laybacking and jamming. Big gear needed. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Eastern Grit Jamming , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| howlingbaboon | 5 Aug, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Excelent route! Did the first crack on solid handjams, thought I was a gonna until I discovered the essential hand hold at the top of it. The flake crack is great, bridged half-way up to bang in a big cam and laybacked all way up. Very sustained. Definatly my best yet! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Excelent route! Did the first crack on solid handjams, thought I was a gonna until I discovered the essential hand hold at the top of it. The flake crack is great, bridged half-way up to bang in a big cam and laybacked all way up. Very sustained. Definatly my best yet! |
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| Si dH | 12 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the layback looked quite tough (in terospect probably because I couldnt feel my fingers in the cold) so jammed all the way up. Qutie baggy handjams/fistjams in places so it was a bit awkward and at the bottom of the upper crack it was imporssible to avoid the other crack, but stll a good route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought the layback looked quite tough (in terospect probably because I couldnt feel my fingers in the cold) so jammed all the way up. Qutie baggy handjams/fistjams in places so it was a bit awkward and at the bottom of the upper crack it was imporssible to avoid the other crack, but stll a good route. |
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| Fidget | 30 Oct, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route, nice variation on the three 'sections'. The layback was brilliant - there's a couple of nice ledges on the right, so if you want to place gear you can just pull in from the layback and stick in a jam, stand on a ledge and whack in a cam, and turn it into a layback again, ace. I found the last metre the trickiest as I'd blocked the handhold at the top of the flake with a hex, managed to use an arm bar and almost get in the off-width to escape, really thought I was coming off! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Great route, nice variation on the three 'sections'. The layback was brilliant - there's a couple of nice ledges on the right, so if you want to place gear you can just pull in from the layback and stick in a jam, stand on a ledge and whack in a cam, and turn it into a layback again, ace. I found the last metre the trickiest as I'd blocked the handhold at the top of the flake with a hex, managed to use an arm bar and almost get in the off-width to escape, really thought I was coming off! |
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| Monk | 8 Dec, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: People with short legs may find passing the holly distinctly prickly in delicate places. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: People with short legs may find passing the holly distinctly prickly in delicate places. |
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| Monk | 8 Dec, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was a great route. Very gritstone. It doesn't get any stars at all in the old BMC guide so I was pleasantly surprised. The middle section of the top flake is definitely fairly tricky. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I thought this was a great route. Very gritstone. It doesn't get any stars at all in the old BMC guide so I was pleasantly surprised. The middle section of the top flake is definitely fairly tricky. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Medusa
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Ravensdale)