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UKClimbing Team

12m.

Rockfax Description
Follow either of the previous climbs, but cross the roof rightwards via a thin flake to a tough exit - E1 5b in English. © Rockfax

FA. Clive Jones 1977

Ticklists

Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Pete's 150 Peak Extremes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Pythonist 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I would think most people make the mistake of trying to start up the arete, rather than the proper start to the right. Easy lower climbing followed by good gear and a fun no-hands rest using a toe jam over the roof! No harder than HVS 5a done properly.
Ropeboy 20 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A tricky little number, must be worth 5b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A tricky little number, must be worth 5b
Short&Savage 1 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Think the guide book gives this 5b technical - felt right for its grade. Considering gear is a little sprase (one blue alien) on the actual roof think the route is about e1. Really nice climbing anyway.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 12 Oct, 2019 Lead dog
Hidden 30 Jun, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jun, 2019 2nd O/S
AF Webb 6 Apr, 2019 Lead O/S
Olliebradbury 26 Feb, 2019 2nd O/S
with Trevor
with Trevor
Hidden ??, 2019 -
Hidden ??, 2019 -
F.Wish 20 Oct, 2018 Lead β No hands rest on the edge of the roof is pretty cool, awkward top though.
No hands rest on the edge of the roof is pretty cool, awkward top though.
lucybradbury 20 Oct, 2018 2nd
with F.Wish
with F.Wish
jim182 7 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S
moberg 29 Sep, 2018 2nd dnf Jeremy led it and found the heel hook with toe jammed in a break. I couldn't get my toe in though, in spite of a couple of efforts. I enjoyed the lower technical slab, though barn-doored while reaching out left at one point and fell off.
with Jeremy
Jeremy led it and found the heel hook with toe jammed in a break. I couldn't get my toe in though, in spite of a couple of efforts. I enjoyed the lower technical slab, though barn-doored while reaching out left at one point and fell off.
with Jeremy
Hidden 29 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 15 Sep, 2018 Lead dnf
Hidden 12 Jun, 2018 Solo O/S
morganator u 11 Aug, 2017 Lead
with Stan Halstead
with Stan Halstead
Hidden 1 Jul, 2017 TR
Ben Bransby 27 Jun, 2017 Solo
andrzej kierzek 9 Apr, 2017 Lead RP Fell off the exit in first attempt & finished after resting on gear. Did it clean in second attempt.
with Mailys
Fell off the exit in first attempt & finished after resting on gear. Did it clean in second attempt.
with Mailys
Alan James - UKC and UKH u 2 Apr, 2017 Lead
phil64 10 Apr, 2016 2nd 5.9 could be 5.10? v v good
with phil baker, Andy Bowman
5.9 could be 5.10? v v good
with phil baker, Andy Bowman
Hidden 23 May, 2015 Lead dnf
Andypeak 23 May, 2015 2nd
WillDoyle 31 May, 2014 Lead O/S
rustaldo 11 May, 2014 Lead O/S Really hard until you find the toe-hook
Really hard until you find the toe-hook
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
treesrockice 23 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Awesome! better than expected should be the main route of the 3
Awesome! better than expected should be the main route of the 3
Hidden 29 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 10 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
masa-alpin u 9 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Interesting and committing!
with David F
Interesting and committing!
with David F
Hidden 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Nick1812P 19 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 19 Aug, 2013 2nd dog
Andy Peak 1 20 Jul, 2013 Lead
with Andrew Deckon
with Andrew Deckon
bclifton ??, 2013 Lead
Hidden 20 Oct, 2012 Solo O/S
Mr Wild 9 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Gudge u ? Sep, 2012 2nd dog
with Cliff Shasby
with Cliff Shasby
barni 5 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
with Ami
with Ami
soph 5 Jul, 2012 2nd
with loundsy
with loundsy
Hidden 24 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
deacondeacon u 24 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hardcore Pat 26 Mar, 2012 Lead dog
with Sir William of pettitsmith
with Sir William of pettitsmith
tom.e 23 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Jonny Nick 15 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S Mega moves over the lip! All in the toe hook.
Mega moves over the lip! All in the toe hook.
Ahab ? Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
thomasadixon 8 May, 2011 Lead O/S Good fun
with Johnny, mwatson, Reaver2k
Good fun
with Johnny, mwatson, Reaver2k
JRae 8 May, 2011 Lead
Reaver2k 8 May, 2011 2nd
Hidden 16 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
davidgent 16 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S
with Joe Prinold, Jonny Bull
with Joe Prinold, Jonny Bull
jonnybull 14 Apr, 2011 Lead dog Got pumped at the lip, fell once, then a tough leg-straightening move in the heel-toe lock.
with prinny
Got pumped at the lip, fell once, then a tough leg-straightening move in the heel-toe lock.
with prinny
w.pettet-smith ? Apr, 2011 - hvs bollocks! a wonderful udge though. classic stuff.
hvs bollocks! a wonderful udge though. classic stuff.
RFWilkie 26 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
mwatson ??, 2011 -
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
robertmctague ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ? Dec, 2010 -
APRS 2 Oct, 2010 2nd dnf
Boj S 2 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
hamish2016 2 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with chris burn
with chris burn
Hidden 2 Oct, 2010 Lead RP
Hidden 29 Aug, 2010 2nd RP
Phil Jennings 29 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
AndyL 29 Aug, 2010 Lead β
Ketu 23 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
Graeme Hammond 23 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Did the right hand start first go after not wanting to commit to the left direct one in the heat so jumped off but my foot got stuck on the ledge and I landed a bit awkwardly but good spotting by rob kept me off the ground. Cool no hands position on the lip (didn't really feel like a rest as my foot was slipping out of the leg bar so I only let go briefly). desperately hard exit but pleased to do it with style. currently HVS 5a on ukc is a joke!
with Ketu
Did the right hand start first go after not wanting to commit to the left direct one in the heat so jumped off but my foot got stuck on the ledge and I landed a bit awkwardly but good spotting by rob kept me off the ground. Cool no hands position on the lip (didn't really feel like a rest as my foot was slipping out of the leg bar so I only let go briefly). desperately hard exit but pleased to do it with style. currently HVS 5a on ukc is a joke!
with Ketu
Adam Potter 13 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt
Dogmusher 9 May, 2010 2nd
with chris parson
with chris parson
drcorbasisgod 9 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Pete Graham 18 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
with benjied, James Fleming
with benjied, James Fleming
Hidden 16 Apr, 2010 Lead dog
morganator u 11 Apr, 2010 Lead
Martin Cooper 11 Apr, 2010 2nd
with Dave Sykes, morganator
with Dave Sykes, morganator
BrettB ? Apr, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 2nd β
james999 ??, 2010 2nd
goi.ashmore 6 Sep, 2009 Lead β
with Arnaud Garcon
with Arnaud Garcon
quiffhanger 9 Aug, 2009 Lead
AsleepOnBelay 9 Aug, 2009 2nd dog Strewth! Went okay once I stopped trying to pull and got my entire leg in the horizontal break above the heel hook ledge.
with Ross
Strewth! Went okay once I stopped trying to pull and got my entire leg in the horizontal break above the heel hook ledge.
with Ross
cem 5 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
with Ketu
with Ketu
Ketu 5 Jul, 2009 2nd O/S
with Charles M
with Charles M
Hidden 13 Apr, 2009 Lead
danm 5 Apr, 2009 2nd
with Sion
with Sion
Hidden 5 Apr, 2009 Lead
skittles 15 Mar, 2009 2nd O/S Definitely not 5a, at least 5b, maybe even a bit harder.
Definitely not 5a, at least 5b, maybe even a bit harder.
will6459 15 Mar, 2009 Lead O/S
with James J
with James J
ilikemonkys 15 Mar, 2009 -
with Rob emery
with Rob emery
Sal37 ??, 2009 Lead O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2009 2nd O/S
with Andy S
with Andy S
Hidden 16 Nov, 2008 Lead dnf
GrahamPlant 28 Sep, 2008 Lead
with Jamie Armatage
with Jamie Armatage
Hidden 18 Aug, 2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 17 Aug, 2008 2nd β
Dan 85 17 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
with Niall
with Niall
Hidden 9 Jun, 2008 Lead O/S
Apharri ? Jun, 2008 2nd
with Andre Hedger
with Andre Hedger
TomHaigh 23 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
Ian Parnell 12 May, 2008 2nd
with Jon Winter
with Jon Winter
mic_b u 2 May, 2008 Lead
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Mick B 23 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with Rikardo
with Rikardo
Rikardo 23 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S
with Mick B
with Mick B
Hidden 10 Jun, 2007 -
richgibson 21 Oct, 2006 2nd
with John
with John
Pythonist 29 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S
with Chris Jennions
with Chris Jennions
Ropeboy 30 May, 2005 Lead
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
Roget 13 Oct, 2001 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Hidden 22 May, 2001 Lead
Strong Steve 15 Feb, 2001 Lead G/U
tuftynick u ??, 2000 Lead
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Jon Read ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 1995 Lead
nai ??, 1995 Lead
Hidden 9 Oct, 1994 Lead
Stoney Boy u 12 May, 1994 Lead O/S
with Phil Cundy
with Phil Cundy
Mike_d78 u 1 May, 1993 2nd O/S
with Sven
with Sven
SR1970 ? May, 1991 Lead O/S
Hidden 8 Oct, 1989 Lead
Rob Davies 2 Jul, 1989 2nd
with Brian H
with Brian H
Rob Seymour 27 Jul, 1985 Lead O/S
with Jim Seymour, Stu Mackay
with Jim Seymour, Stu Mackay
Hidden ??, 1984 Lead O/S
18 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Promontory Traverse

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Black Rocks)