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12m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the awkward thin crack in the blunt arete to a cramped ledge, then attack the crack that splits the overhang by jamming/laybacking. Watch for the rope jamming in the crack. © Rockfax

FA. Len Chapman 1940.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Eastern Grit Jamming, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, 'Soft' Peak HVSs., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Ryan's Stanage Popular Left?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jim Walton 30 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Just get your leg up and commit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just get your leg up and commit.
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start,was only seconding so after falling off about 8 times i just thought bollox to it and came in from the right. Nice top bit!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Hard start,was only seconding so after falling off about 8 times i just thought bollox to it and came in from the right. Nice top bit!
GrahamD 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I like jamming and was dissapointed to find there wasn't any !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I like jamming and was dissapointed to find there wasn't any !
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 6 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route - although I would be tempted to say that it's a stiff VS. Perhaps the only thing that bumps it up is the tricky start.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route - although I would be tempted to say that it's a stiff VS. Perhaps the only thing that bumps it up is the tricky start.
Jon Greengrass 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The start felt solid 5a maybe 5b not one for a warm day. Cheeky leg hook under the roof gives a well needed shakeout. 1 perfect handjam and laybacking on enormous jugs lead through the overhang to the top. Completely painless.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The start felt solid 5a maybe 5b not one for a warm day. Cheeky leg hook under the roof gives a well needed shakeout. 1 perfect handjam and laybacking on enormous jugs lead through the overhang to the top. Completely painless.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 149
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 142
Votes cast 128
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Neb Buttress Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Bamford Edge)