Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The leaning crack left of the niches in the north-facing wall is followed by well protected climbing on jugs 'n' jams. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott early 1920s.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage HS Challenge
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pythonist | 4 Mar, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Again, the guide-book writers enforce their style on the public... No jamming, and not really sustained - rather, a single pull on the upper slab that feels a little airy solo, but with the gear about the place probably makes a hard "Severe" as oppose to a "Hard Severe". | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Again, the guide-book writers enforce their style on the public... No jamming, and not really sustained - rather, a single pull on the upper slab that feels a little airy solo, but with the gear about the place probably makes a hard "Severe" as oppose to a "Hard Severe". |
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| goosebump | 30 Oct, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: No need to jam anything anywhere if you dont want to. There are plenty of hand holds outside/on the edge of the crack. I found this one of the easiest HS I have done, albeit with a tricky move half-way (if like me you miss a bucket of a foothold). Never sustained either... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: No need to jam anything anywhere if you dont want to. There are plenty of hand holds outside/on the edge of the crack. I found this one of the easiest HS I have done, albeit with a tricky move half-way (if like me you miss a bucket of a foothold). Never sustained either... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Popular
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Paradise Wall
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)