UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the flake-crack right of the corner and the overhang to a ledge then step right and follow a shallow crack to a better ledge. Finish up the right-hand crack above. © Rockfax

FA. Eric Byne early 1930s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , The Gritlist , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Row & Tom's Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 20 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Fantastic. Steep pumpy bouldery start into really chilled mild crack and slab climbing. All super well protected. Spot on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic. Steep pumpy bouldery start into really chilled mild crack and slab climbing. All super well protected. Spot on.
Slikshot 14 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Cool climb, bottom holds a sketchy but protected bulge
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cool climb, bottom holds a sketchy but protected bulge
Andi_FJ 30 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: airy up to the upper crack & ledge, interesting!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: airy up to the upper crack & ledge, interesting!
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Very enjoyable and protectable. The finish up the wall and small roof to the left at the top are more in keeping with the 4c tech grade, probably VS4c.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable and protectable. The finish up the wall and small roof to the left at the top are more in keeping with the 4c tech grade, probably VS4c.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 229
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 216
Votes cast 208
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Three Tree Climb

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Lawrencefield)

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