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16m.

Rockfax Description
Full on at the grade! A boulder problem start f6A+ up a leaning rib leads to a ledge at 5m (or traverse from the left reducing the grade to 5c). Pull through the notch in the roof with difficulty and finish up the wall on sloping holds. © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Stanage E2 Challenge (1989 Guide), John Allen (gritstone) megamix

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 1 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice. Boulder problem start is good fun, whilst the crux just after the ledge has to be one of the best moves on Stanage. Not sure of the significance of moving up using the broken pocket, I went up and down several times whilst arduously fiddling in some gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice. Boulder problem start is good fun, whilst the crux just after the ledge has to be one of the best moves on Stanage. Not sure of the significance of moving up using the broken pocket, I went up and down several times whilst arduously fiddling in some gear.
north country boy 14 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah pocket before lip is damaged and is now more use as a single finger mono! Bouldery move leaving the shelf using it though!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah pocket before lip is damaged and is now more use as a single finger mono! Bouldery move leaving the shelf using it though!
Garan 23 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The "thin pocket" is very damaged. Just about get the ends of two fingers into. I think the crux is leaving the good ledge at 5m.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The "thin pocket" is very damaged. Just about get the ends of two fingers into. I think the crux is leaving the good ledge at 5m.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jandwilson 6 Mar 2nd β
with Jwatson
with Jwatson
Jwatson 6 Mar Lead O/S
lusonavigator 20 Oct, 2018 2nd dog
with mskngch
with mskngch
mskngch 20 Oct, 2018 Lead 5c start
5c start
lucybradbury 31 May, 2018 Lead dog I should probably try this again when it's not 23 degrees, but it's got some funky moves and a sketchy top
I should probably try this again when it's not 23 degrees, but it's got some funky moves and a sketchy top
RosieYates 8 Apr, 2018 2nd dog Ugh. First half felt hard and the second half was filthy green slopers. I'll stick to HVS and below.
Ugh. First half felt hard and the second half was filthy green slopers. I'll stick to HVS and below.
phillipwright 8 Apr, 2018 Lead G/U Bouldery start with very green slopers at the end. A bit scary at the end with the green slopers. I'm sure its less slippy when its been dry for a while. Fell off the bouldery start
Bouldery start with very green slopers at the end. A bit scary at the end with the green slopers. I'm sure its less slippy when its been dry for a while. Fell off the bouldery start
Mike505 8 Oct, 2017 Lead dnf Shut down by the start.
Shut down by the start.
JulesV ??, 2017 -
Hidden ??, 2017 Lead
hamer89 11 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 13 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Brilliant boulder problem start (pads used) then good gear and another great sequence through the roof.
with Pete Jonwood
Brilliant boulder problem start (pads used) then good gear and another great sequence through the roof.
with Pete Jonwood
Dave Musgrove Jnr u 14 May, 2016 AltLd
with Louis
with Louis
James Oakes 17 Apr, 2016 Lead G/U Tough start
with KPoz, Rob Cooper, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
Tough start
with KPoz, Rob Cooper, Andy Lawrence, Bill Lawrence
Bill Lawrence 17 Apr, 2016 2nd dog
ashtond6 u 10 Apr, 2016 Sent Done route before
Done route before
manwithacam 15 Aug, 2015 Lead Bit of a fight and fright on this. Fell from pocket of boulder problem first attempt, cam in hole too low and decked onto pad, shaken but unhurt. Few minutes of regrouping and calming down then tried again and got it. Spent about 20 minutes on ledge trying to work out next move through notch, up and down a few times, trying to stay calm. Facing large lob if failed move. Finally decided on move involving high heel in break and left hand on nobble, and got the gorgeous hold above fairly easily. Rest of route as Rockfax describes, placed one undercammed no.3 Camelot. Took about another 20mins to set up belay, faffing around due to all the excitement. Thanks to Stephen for his patience and encouragement. Can't claim onsight but I'm still quite please with how I did on it, it's clearly a stout challenge for E2!
with Stephen
Bit of a fight and fright on this. Fell from pocket of boulder problem first attempt, cam in hole too low and decked onto pad, shaken but unhurt. Few minutes of regrouping and calming down then tried again and got it. Spent about 20 minutes on ledge trying to work out next move through notch, up and down a few times, trying to stay calm. Facing large lob if failed move. Finally decided on move involving high heel in break and left hand on nobble, and got the gorgeous hold above fairly easily. Rest of route as Rockfax describes, placed one undercammed no.3 Camelot. Took about another 20mins to set up belay, faffing around due to all the excitement. Thanks to Stephen for his patience and encouragement. Can't claim onsight but I'm still quite please with how I did on it, it's clearly a stout challenge for E2!
with Stephen
strudles 15 Aug, 2015 2nd dog failed on the first hard move, weighted the rope and got it second try. only really skipped the first easier move.
failed on the first hard move, weighted the rope and got it second try. only really skipped the first easier move.
Wil Treasure 20 Apr, 2015 TR
Hidden ??, 2015 -
Andy Peak 1 30 Sep, 2014 Lead Its all about the rock over
Its all about the rock over
dr_botnik 30 Sep, 2014 Lead dnf
Gudge u 16 Jul, 2014 Lead dnf
with cem
with cem
ashtond6 u 13 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
ashtond6 u 1 Mar, 2014 Lead dnf seemed bold to do roof at the top, ankle smasher?!?
seemed bold to do roof at the top, ankle smasher?!?
Dan Arkle ??, 2014 -
Matt77 6 Oct, 2013 2nd
Owen W-G 6 Oct, 2013 Lead β Always been intimidated by this one but got inspired watching some chap demo the crux and it looked totally doable. Also got some essential gear thrown up when he pointed out I'd need a really big and a really small cam (I was glad for it) so didn't feel at all onsight. 5c start too but wouldn't fancy direct without pads. Classy crux move.
with Matt77
Always been intimidated by this one but got inspired watching some chap demo the crux and it looked totally doable. Also got some essential gear thrown up when he pointed out I'd need a really big and a really small cam (I was glad for it) so didn't feel at all onsight. 5c start too but wouldn't fancy direct without pads. Classy crux move.
with Matt77
Hidden 2 Aug, 2013 Lead
MikeLeeds 21 Jul, 2013 Lead dnf Too scared to do the first moves so traversed in. To scared to go up from the ledge so moved onto the climb next door.
with John McMahon
Too scared to do the first moves so traversed in. To scared to go up from the ledge so moved onto the climb next door.
with John McMahon
Hidden 31 May, 2013 2nd dog
Si dH 19 May, 2013 Lead O/S Ground up - fell off the start a few times. Seemed hard for V3/6a. Upper crux was steady when I committed.
with Neil Furniss
Ground up - fell off the start a few times. Seemed hard for V3/6a. Upper crux was steady when I committed.
with Neil Furniss
deacondeacon u 20 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Rad. onsight although did climb up and down the boulder problem before committing. No pads
Rad. onsight although did climb up and down the boulder problem before committing. No pads
saffy ??, 2013 Lead O/S
JayAyBee ??, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rich
with Rich
Hidden ??, 2013 Lead O/S
JBO 22 Dec, 2012 Lead O/S Tough bouldery start, in the end solved by getting a heel on the potruding lump and using a pocket that avoided detection on the first two goes, which I was a little annoyed about... good route.
Tough bouldery start, in the end solved by getting a heel on the potruding lump and using a pocket that avoided detection on the first two goes, which I was a little annoyed about... good route.
morganator u 19 Oct, 2012 Sent
with soph
with soph
soph 19 Oct, 2012 Sent V3 start - brill
with Rocio, Andy Reeve, morganator
V3 start - brill
with Rocio, Andy Reeve, morganator
Hidden 27 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Sut 27 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
shed_hed 21 Jul, 2012 2nd dog A battle all the way to the top!
with Alun Freem
A battle all the way to the top!
with Alun Freem
w.pettet-smith 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S previously backed off 2nd crux for want of a small cam. did fine this time but felt well stiff for want of the good regosity for left hand. lovely climbing
with pat
previously backed off 2nd crux for want of a small cam. did fine this time but felt well stiff for want of the good regosity for left hand. lovely climbing
with pat
Hidden 17 Jun, 2012 Lead rpt
maddy.c 31 Mar, 2012 -
Billg 24 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
with Dave Gregory
with Dave Gregory
john lynch 29 Feb, 2012 2nd O/S missed boulder start
with adam harrison
missed boulder start
with adam harrison
Apharri ? Feb, 2012 Lead O/S Avoided boulder start due to damp
Avoided boulder start due to damp
Andy Peak 1 28 Oct, 2011 2nd
with nelil
with nelil
Hidden 15 Oct, 2011 2nd O/S
markalmack 15 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with shiobhan
with shiobhan
Hannes B 14 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S
with Tom
with Tom
geddicakes 25 May, 2011 2nd
Mike_Hayes 25 May, 2011 Lead O/S
Mark Warnett 30 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S hard and bold move up from the ledge
hard and bold move up from the ledge
uphillnow ??, 2011 -
Tophe ??, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ? Dec, 2010 -
Hidden 17 Oct, 2010 2nd dog
batterj2 19 Jul, 2010 TR dnf
with Will Ceuppens
with Will Ceuppens
Will_Maxwell 30 May, 2010 Lead dnf
with Debbie Armstrong, Tim Lewis
with Debbie Armstrong, Tim Lewis
withey 19 May, 2010 Lead dog Jumped off the start a few times, then manned up and did it. Second crux felt fine. Didn't have any decent gear for the upper section, so escaped onto Cave Arete.
with Nick Mattia
Jumped off the start a few times, then manned up and did it. Second crux felt fine. Didn't have any decent gear for the upper section, so escaped onto Cave Arete.
with Nick Mattia
Alex@home ? May, 2010 Lead rpt
with The Doctor
with The Doctor
Hidden 27 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 27 Apr, 2010 2nd dog
mark20 27 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
Andy Nicholson ? Apr, 2010 2nd O/S
with Colin Binkes
with Colin Binkes
Hidden ? Apr, 2010 Sent O/S
peppermill 7 Mar, 2010 2nd First E2 2nd
First E2 2nd
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 2nd
with Roy
with Roy
Boy ? Oct, 2009 -
with Nige Kershaw
with Nige Kershaw
NeilGriffiths 23 Aug, 2009 2nd
with frost
with frost
frost 23 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
with N Griffiths
with N Griffiths
Hidden 25 Apr, 2009 Lead β
thomasadixon 24 Apr, 2009 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 24 Apr, 2009 2nd dog Annoyingly I fell on the first few moves! I was holding the wrong hold with my right hand for my rockover onto the horn! Really big reach up for the pocket and then an awkward move onto the ledge. The next section is probably even harder but managed to stay on this. Really big reach for a poor hold up right, small rockover move for another poor hold for left hand, right hand out right, right foot out right, then rockover and up onto another poor hold! Awesome, but I thought very hard!
Annoyingly I fell on the first few moves! I was holding the wrong hold with my right hand for my rockover onto the horn! Really big reach up for the pocket and then an awkward move onto the ledge. The next section is probably even harder but managed to stay on this. Really big reach for a poor hold up right, small rockover move for another poor hold for left hand, right hand out right, right foot out right, then rockover and up onto another poor hold! Awesome, but I thought very hard!
Hidden 6 Mar, 2009 Sent x
Hidden 8 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
andyebbens 17 Aug, 2008 2nd
with Steve E and Luke
with Steve E and Luke
Skell 31 May, 2008 Lead O/S
with Kelvin
with Kelvin
Hidden ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
craig d ??, 2008 -
Hidden 3 Sep, 2007 2nd
Neil McA u 19 Jul, 2007 2nd rpt
with Ivan Green, Andy Cave
with Ivan Green, Andy Cave
Hidden 12 Jun, 2007 Sent x
Hidden ? Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
richgibson ? Apr, 2007 2nd
with John
with John
The old James turnbull ??, 2007 -
Ben Bransby ? Nov, 2006 -
jonnyboy 2 Jan, 2006 Sent x boulder start at v3 i think
with Paul A
boulder start at v3 i think
with Paul A
dan gibson ??, 2006 -
Hidden 13 Nov, 2005 Lead O/S
alicia ? Nov, 2005 2nd
with Ali K
with Ali K
Hidden ? Sep, 2005 Lead O/S
Gus 16 Apr, 2005 Lead O/S
with ben rouse
with ben rouse
Tom Briggs u ??, 2005 -
Pete Graham ??, 2005 2nd
with Dave Morris
with Dave Morris
LankyPaddy 23 Sep, 2004 2nd β Couldn't fit on the 6a, did the 5c version
Couldn't fit on the 6a, did the 5c version
Hidden ? Sep, 2003 Lead
Hidden ? Jun, 2003 2nd
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH u 31 May, 2003 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 29 Mar, 2003 Lead O/S Came in from the left. E2 5c
with Adrian Casey
Came in from the left. E2 5c
with Adrian Casey
Hidden ??, 2003 2nd O/S
Hidden 8 Aug, 2002 TR
Mark Stevenson 4 May, 2002 2nd dog
with Loz Owen / Chris Howard
with Loz Owen / Chris Howard
Hidden ??, 2002 -
Hidden ??, 2002 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2001 TR
goi.ashmore 19 Aug, 2000 Lead O/S
with Roy Thomas
with Roy Thomas
Hidden 19 Jul, 2000 TR
Hidden ??, 2000 -
gavjwp ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with Dave Todd
with Dave Todd
Hidden ??, 2000 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall ? May, 1999 TR
with Bill G
with Bill G
DavidEvans 28 Apr, 1999 Lead O/S
Simon Pearce ??, 1999 -
Hidden 15 Feb, 1998 TR
Hidden ? Oct, 1997 Lead O/S
ste_d 18 Jul, 1997 2nd O/S
Mike_d78 u 18 Jul, 1997 Lead
with ste_d
with ste_d
Chris Reid 14 Jun, 1997 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
with Dave Plummer
Jon Read ??, 1997 Lead O/S
Bruce Kerr 9 Apr, 1996 2nd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
Rich Kirby ??, 1996 -
Hidden 27 Apr, 1995 Lead
Hidden 27 Apr, 1995 -
SR1970 ? Apr, 1995 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1995 Lead
nai ??, 1995 Lead
NickJH ? Aug, 1994 -
Hidden 19 Jun, 1994 TR
Hidden 12 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Jun, 1994 Lead rpt
crossleysm ??, 1994 Lead c.94
c.94
Mike_d78 u 1 May, 1993 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Roget 20 Jul, 1991 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
Steve Crowe 18 May, 1991 Lead O/S
with karin
with karin
Hidden 21 Jun, 1988 Lead
Hidden ??, 1988 Lead O/S
David Slater 24 Oct, 1987 2nd
with Justin Vogler
with Justin Vogler
Neil McA u 12 Apr, 1987 Lead rpt
with Alice Eisele
with Alice Eisele
steve taylor u ??, 1987 -
Hidden ? Sep, 1986 Lead
Hammy 26 Apr, 1986 Solo
ajtay ??, 1986 Lead
John Marsland 8 Jun, 1985 Solo dnf 6a start only
6a start only
Paul Clarke ??, 1985 Lead
with FMC
with FMC
Neil McA u 2 Sep, 1984 Lead O/S
with Roy Ruddle
with Roy Ruddle
sadams 17 Jun, 1984 2nd
with Pete Herrod
with Pete Herrod
Hidden 2 May, 1984 Lead
DonnyDave 10 Aug, 1982 TR
GeoffG 28 Mar, 1982 -
Ghastly Rubberfeet ??, 1982 2nd
with Phil Burke
with Phil Burke
duncan ? Apr, 1981 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball u 5 Oct, 1980 2nd
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
Mike Owen 28 Sep, 1980 Lead O/S
with Dave Ellison, Elaine Watson
with Dave Ellison, Elaine Watson
Derek Furze u ??, 1980 -
andy gittins ??, 1979 -
petemeads ??, 1977 Lead O/S Upper crux depends on how well you can use the finger pocket - easy second time I tried, impossible the first (some time earlier).
Upper crux depends on how well you can use the finger pocket - easy second time I tried, impossible the first (some time earlier).
Canyak ??, 1973 -
27 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Brown's Eliminate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Froggatt Edge)