There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale the bulge - strenuous then delicate - to stand on the nose. Easier climbing remains - the centre of the face is the best option though the terminally harassed can escape left. © Rockfax
FA. Jim Perrin 1967.
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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north country boy | 31 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars | ||
Show beta
βeta: Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars |
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UKB Shark | 1 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me. | ||
Show beta
βeta: A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me. |
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Boy | 28 Jun, 2004 |
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βeta: The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right. | ||
Show beta
βeta: The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stanage North)