UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Intimidating and memorable. From blocks, enter the leaning groove (poor wires) then climb to the roof. Swing right and scale the bulge - strenuous then delicate - to stand on the nose. Easier climbing remains - the centre of the face is the best option though the terminally harassed can escape left. © Rockfax

FA. Jim Perrin 1967.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
north country boy 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yeah i put a zero in the half-cam placement which looked bomber! Awesome route which feels rather exposed when cruising the top easier section with little useful gear! ***stars
UKB Shark 1 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me.
Show beta
βeta: A good HB/Rock 3 with poor friend 0 in the bulge/groove at head height on the initial traverse out was welcome. The friend half John is very hard to spot and was missed by me.
Boy 28 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right.
Show beta
βeta: The rockover out of the steepness is protectable with a bomber friend half (or possibly zero) in horizontal break on right.

Logged Ascents

137 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 29
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mad Dogs and Englishmen

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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