UKC

22m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the flake in the left rib of Straight Crack, step left and climb the fine face direct. Rounded and with less gear than you might like. An alternative to Christmas Crack on 25th December? © Rockfax

FA. John Allen, Christmas Day 1973.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Stanage Wishlist, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, Severe Stanage, John Allen (gritstone) megamix, Unappetising Peak

Feedback

User Date Notes
neuromancer 24 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: I'm not sure what large cams I needed and where they went. You can place one above the crux pull onto the slab, but you're then in no-man's-land (cam's-land?) For the next 6m. E1 if you were short, luckily I wasn't.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm not sure what large cams I needed and where they went. You can place one above the crux pull onto the slab, but you're then in no-man's-land (cam's-land?) For the next 6m. E1 if you were short, luckily I wasn't.
Lurkio 2 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top.
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo!
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head
Neil Adams 1 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive!
Si dH 24 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :)
Show beta
βeta: I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :)
Tyler 18 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey
shaun walby 10 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up.
Jon Greengrass 8 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down.
Jon Stewart 29 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable.
Chris the Tall 15 Aug, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful

Logged Ascents

748 users have logged this
39 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 130
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 130
Votes cast 120
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Tody's Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)
Loading Notifications...