22m.
Rockfax Description
Climb the flake in the left rib of Straight Crack, step left and climb the fine face direct. Rounded and with less gear than you might like. An alternative to Christmas Crack on 25th December? © Rockfax
FA. John Allen, Christmas Day 1973.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , John Allen (gritstone) megamix , Unappetising Peak , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| neuromancer | 24 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: I'm not sure what large cams I needed and where they went. You can place one above the crux pull onto the slab, but you're then in no-man's-land (cam's-land?) For the next 6m. E1 if you were short, luckily I wasn't. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I'm not sure what large cams I needed and where they went. You can place one above the crux pull onto the slab, but you're then in no-man's-land (cam's-land?) For the next 6m. E1 if you were short, luckily I wasn't. |
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| Lurkio | 2 May, 2007 |
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βeta: Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route - typical grit slopers. One for a cool head, as the gear is pants between the first moves off the ledge and the next decent break near the top. |
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| Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH | 26 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Glad to read the other comments about the slopeyness, definitely agree. It was quite a scary solo! |
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| sheffieldchris | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head | βeta? | |
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βeta: cold turkey is such an apt name because after you step up above your 3rd bit of crap gear in the flared breaks on sloping holds thats how you feel. good climb if you are a slab climber with a cool head |
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| Neil Adams | 1 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I agree with all the comments about it being scary, slopy and balancy. I hate grit sometimes! I thought it looked ok from the bottom and that I'd be able to get gear into the breaks but no such luck - I ended up with a massive run-out on quite sketchy moves. Definitely felt good to top out alive! |
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| Si dH | 24 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :) | ||
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βeta: I got good friends 3 and 4 in the first break, without these itd be very bold. The moves up for about 4 metres from there were tough and then the gear arrived as it got easier. 5a about right Id say, probably my first non soft-touch HVS so it feels good :) |
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| Tyler | 18 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I'm glad it's not just me then! I agree with the consesus here that it's v. slopey and without a number of large friends it'd be scarey |
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| shaun walby | 10 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Exciting stuff this one, great opening moves then its slab time. The harder moves nearer the bottom of the slab have pro that wont rip, the moves in the middle which are a tad easier have gear that may well rip (if you slip as the disco leg gets jiggy with it). As a result it felt pretty sustained to me until near the top.Calm head, good feet and as with most slab work bottle needed. Tip...if you go well and feel happy on Hargreaves you should be ok on this accepting its a grade up. |
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| Jon Greengrass | 8 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I got nearly a full set of friends in on this, unfortunatley only the bottom one stayed in, the pscyhological benefit is there as long as you don't look down. |
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| Jon Stewart | 29 May, 2003 |
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βeta: If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If this doesn't deserve reachy and slopey symbols, I'm not sure what does. Great route though, if rather escapable. |
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| Chris the Tall | 15 Aug, 2002 |
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βeta: Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cracking route - might want to suggest a long reach reach and large friends are useful |
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Route of Interest
Right-hand Tower
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage North)