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24m.

Rockfax Description
A breathtaking pitch of outstanding quality. The technical thin crack leads to a rest below the overhang then traverse up and left until a good horizontal break is reached. Move back right and make a tricky move to gain a good ledge. From here a crucial precarious layaway move leads to the horn and a delicate finish. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Biven 1954.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Stanage *** HVS's, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, World Graded List, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, One Day Challenges: HVS-E4, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Stanage Popular, On Peak Rock, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, The Gritlist, 2020 Trips, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Ryan's Stanage Popular Left?

Feedback

User Date Notes
MNA123 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing route, gave me a climbgasm. Dint see the high wires for the 2nd crux but just went for it anyway with my last pro dwindling away in the break at the start of the rightwards traverse. After the hard start the rest of the route feels quite eash IMHO!
 
Show beta
βeta: Amazing route, gave me a climbgasm. Dint see the high wires for the 2nd crux but just went for it anyway with my last pro dwindling away in the break at the start of the rightwards traverse. After the hard start the rest of the route feels quite eash IMHO!
Duz Walker 2 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: once again my Salvation lies in Rockfax user comments - tired at the end of the day my poor jamming sees me succumb to not quite making the first 12 feet and thinking this was not even the crux I skulked away forlornly - now I see the light I am freshly determined.
 
Show beta
βeta: once again my Salvation lies in Rockfax user comments - tired at the end of the day my poor jamming sees me succumb to not quite making the first 12 feet and thinking this was not even the crux I skulked away forlornly - now I see the light I am freshly determined.
leon 31 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: wicked route. technique will see you right up the crack without getting too tired. loved the traverse back across and mantel up. thought i might have got a bit more gear in after the mantle at this grade, but hay ho
 
Show beta
βeta: wicked route. technique will see you right up the crack without getting too tired. loved the traverse back across and mantel up. thought i might have got a bit more gear in after the mantle at this grade, but hay ho

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 194
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 182
Votes cast 187
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)