UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
A stiff problem. Climb the face just right of the arete (poor cam) using tiny holds away on the right and a scary slap for the break. The upper part is easier though reachy. It is possible to climb left of the arete at about E2 (side-runner), but that just isn't the ticket! © Rockfax

FA. John Allen 1973.

Ticklists

Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, John Allen (gritstone) megamix

Feedback

User Date Notes
TomYoung 23 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Red cam in the break protected my slumps trying to go for the crimp quite well, better than it looks.
Show beta
βeta: Red cam in the break protected my slumps trying to go for the crimp quite well, better than it looks.
Toby Dunn 25 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: better to start up the arete, taking the mono / small edges with the right hand. Totally independent from PO wall this way too.
Nige M 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The 'poor' friend is a 2 not a 1.5 and it will hold weight. No slapping required to reach the break, just great moves using an unlikely mono and a crimp. The upper arete has good moves too.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 16
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Nectar

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage North)
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