Rockfax Description
Climb the awkward wide crack to the right edge of the cave then move right to finish up the face. Well protected but hard work. © Rockfax
FA. Eric Byne 1950.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , 100 Stanage stars , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Northern (Yorkshire !?) Climbs for a Southerner , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage Popular Greens , Stanage 'Difficults' , Stanage Solo , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Level 1 Peak Trad Routes , Stanage green spot starters , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage Green Spot Challenge , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ola Czerwiakowska | 22 Apr |
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βeta: Fallen on the traverse bit cause used the higher break not the lower. Read you feet before attempting. | ||
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βeta: Fallen on the traverse bit cause used the higher break not the lower. Read you feet before attempting. |
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| Dominic | 25 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Rewarding route, feels tricky if keeping low on the traverse and no rest at the cave. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rewarding route, feels tricky if keeping low on the traverse and no rest at the cave. |
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| gilandcoop | 29 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: Wired guide has it as a VDiff..definitely an HVD. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Wired guide has it as a VDiff..definitely an HVD. |
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| majicjohn | 18 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: sent my mate up this for his 3rd lead ever and he did the traverse to low but managed to get through. I think the low traverse is pretty fun but definatly not for the faint hearted that think its a VD! Good fun. | ||
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βeta: sent my mate up this for his 3rd lead ever and he did the traverse to low but managed to get through. I think the low traverse is pretty fun but definatly not for the faint hearted that think its a VD! Good fun. |
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| CurlyStevo | 28 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: Did this a few years back. A really nice route and didn't seem too hard for VD, compares in difficulty with Leaning Buttress Crack. There is great gear in the cave a sling aroung a huge boulder! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Did this a few years back. A really nice route and didn't seem too hard for VD, compares in difficulty with Leaning Buttress Crack. There is great gear in the cave a sling aroung a huge boulder! |
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| Byronius Maximus | 27 Sep, 2006 |
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βeta: I too made the mistake of going into the cave, hoping that it would offer some protection, bad idea! While the start was a bit tricky, I found a couple of moves on the face above the cave to be the most awkward. I also thought it was poorly protected for the grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I too made the mistake of going into the cave, hoping that it would offer some protection, bad idea! While the start was a bit tricky, I found a couple of moves on the face above the cave to be the most awkward. I also thought it was poorly protected for the grade. |
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| victim of mathematics | 9 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: extremely hard at the grade, there are many easier severes about the place. Easier if you have a rest stood in the cave though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: extremely hard at the grade, there are many easier severes about the place. Easier if you have a rest stood in the cave though. |
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| Simon Caldwell | 21 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Hard to start direct, judging by the polish most people (including me!) traverse in from the left. After than it's straightford VDiff, but harder if you traverse low down with your hands in the big break rather than moving up into the cave and using the break for your feet. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard to start direct, judging by the polish most people (including me!) traverse in from the left. After than it's straightford VDiff, but harder if you traverse low down with your hands in the big break rather than moving up into the cave and using the break for your feet. |
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N.M.C. Crack
Grade: HVD 4a ***
(Gardom's Edge)