10m.
Rockfax Description
From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small cams. © Rockfax
FA. Brian Pallet 1963.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Pete's 150 Peak Extremes , Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s , Eastern Grit E1s
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Droyd | 2 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Black totem in the right of the break seemed not totally shite, rest v sandy | ||
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βeta: Black totem in the right of the break seemed not totally shite, rest v sandy |
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| lukegorman | 19 Jan, 2020 |
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βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch |
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| leon | 24 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade. |
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| Tom Randall - Lattice Training | 5 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1 |
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| Pythonist | 13 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely. |
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| The Pylon King | 26 Apr, 2003 |
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βeta: very small friends essential! | βeta? | |
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βeta: very small friends essential! |
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| Jon Greengrass | 1 Jul, 2002 |
Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air. |
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Route of Interest
Original Route Direct Start
Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)