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10m.

Rockfax Description
From the centre of the wall, trend right delicately with hard moves to reach a shallow crack and then easier ground. Pleasantly technical climbing protected by small cams. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Pallet 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s

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User Date Notes
lukegorman 19 Jan Show βeta
βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rested after second break. Then fell from above second break. Ripped the two cams out of the higher break. Lower break cam and nut caught me. Cheers Wendy's for the catch
leon 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the friend placements scared me, though I rekon they would hold. i didn't find this a soft touch either but then again i am a baby at this grade.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 5 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really not E1 if you're using a bouldering mat! Quite steady moves and very reasonale for an onsight solo-able E1
Pythonist 13 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is a bit of a soft touch, but depends on how much the dodgy friends scare you. Personally, I think the crux is one move lower than implied by the description. A mate backed off itthinking the upper slab was the hard bit. I got there, and thought that the move past the gear to stand in the break was the crux, meaning a not-horrible fall if you do come off it! Easy E1 definitely.
shorts 22 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The gear is good enough. I tested it on a recent damp summer's day. Certainly not a soft touch though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The gear is good enough. I tested it on a recent damp summer's day. Certainly not a soft touch though.
Mark S Davies 26 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: very small friends essential!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: very small friends essential!
Jon Greengrass 1 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My first E1 Hooray!! Soloed as well!(gullible me) A bit of a soft touch. Technical moves to the cracky bit but they felt relatively safe above a bouldering mat. Pleasant climbing above gives it a routey air.

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 99
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 97
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Tippler

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)