UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the centre of the face to a tiny ledge, step left and go up to the lip of the overhang, then trend left past a well-marked runner slot to hard moves over the nose. Another hard move using a pocket, leads through the final roof to an easy finish. © Rockfax

FA. Andy Barker 1982.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Gillott 5 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Not that I've done it, but aren't you wandering into the next route by this method? I mean, if you put your left foot there, why not the right, then make use of that handy flake for your hands... Maybe it's all a bit congested / artificial around there, but I thought it was supposed to go up pretty much on the nose?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not that I've done it, but aren't you wandering into the next route by this method? I mean, if you put your left foot there, why not the right, then make use of that handy flake for your hands... Maybe it's all a bit congested / artificial around there, but I thought it was supposed to go up pretty much on the nose?
simon cox 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Using the heelhook method (see picture) the grade probably is 6a but without the beta few people would think of doing this, and pulling/ dynoing straight into the break is nails. Once at the break only one more tricky move to easy ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Using the heelhook method (see picture) the grade probably is 6a but without the beta few people would think of doing this, and pulling/ dynoing straight into the break is nails. Once at the break only one more tricky move to easy ground.
Ged Desforges 13 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: HARD! couldnt do the move up to the break. tried just cranking like the guy in the picture here, but maybe not strong enough. is the arete to the right much use? hard!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: HARD! couldnt do the move up to the break. tried just cranking like the guy in the picture here, but maybe not strong enough. is the arete to the right much use? hard!

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Style of Ascent
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Route of Interest

Mortlock's Arete

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Chee Dale Lower)
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