UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the blunt arete using flakes (poor worn runners) to a spooky stretch right to finish up Pedlar's Slab. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison et al early 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Popular red circuit , Stanage HVS Challenge , Level 1 Peak Boulder Problems , Grit solos hvs -e3 , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
Blake 4 Dec, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Very soft for HVS, one for the solo circuit.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very soft for HVS, one for the solo circuit.
Pythonist 11 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Soloed this straight after Pedlar's Slab, and it became more of a head-game! Didn't look at the gear, but the 5a/b moves continue higher and longer than Slab's crux. Desperate VS/piss-easy HVS 5b?
Show beta
βeta: Soloed this straight after Pedlar's Slab, and it became more of a head-game! Didn't look at the gear, but the 5a/b moves continue higher and longer than Slab's crux. Desperate VS/piss-easy HVS 5b?
Monk 9 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought this was quite easy for HVS. The gear is not amazing but there is only one tricky move next to the gear. Never E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought this was quite easy for HVS. The gear is not amazing but there is only one tricky move next to the gear. Never E1.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage Popular

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 83
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Terrazza Crack

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage North)

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