UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the V-groove to ledges, step right and follow the thin crack to just below its end. Go straight up the wall to finish. © Rockfax

FA. Chris Craggs 1997.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Big trad grit list , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
nickcanute 24 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: First claimed as Divine Providence, May 1991 Dave Simmonite
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First claimed as Divine Providence, May 1991 Dave Simmonite
leon 12 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i thought this a worthwhile route. things are nice and steady until you reach the crux.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i thought this a worthwhile route. things are nice and steady until you reach the crux.
Jon Stewart 29 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: i've not climbed providence (though no doubt i will), but am surprised that this hasn't always been the "main" line: get to the crack and then climb it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: i've not climbed providence (though no doubt i will), but am surprised that this hasn't always been the "main" line: get to the crack and then climb it!
Ropeboy 12 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It's worth the inclusion if only to stop this sort of confusion. I agree with CC that it's odd that people climb an unrecorded route and not bother writing it up. It's a pleasant enough route with varied climbing.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's worth the inclusion if only to stop this sort of confusion. I agree with CC that it's odd that people climb an unrecorded route and not bother writing it up. It's a pleasant enough route with varied climbing.
Chris the Tall 29 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Pleasant enough, still feel Providence is the better line on the slab, but this is a more logical start. I suppose both are a bit contrived really.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pleasant enough, still feel Providence is the better line on the slab, but this is a more logical start. I suppose both are a bit contrived really.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 146
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 138
Votes cast 139
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sunset Slab

Grade: HVS 4b ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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