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8m.

Rockfax Description
Make a hard pull on tiny holds to reach the break and a hard finish on poor holds. f6A+ if you sneak off right. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Bancroft 1976.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List

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User Date Notes
tetley 4 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!
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βeta: Hope those who just do the start don't think they deserve the tick as half the battle is in finishing it on those steep breaks!
Fiend 4 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
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βeta: Hard start past a demoralising finger slot (finger size dependent), probably best dynamic. Rest is pretty nice and worth taking some gear for.
Pythonist 2 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
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βeta: Dynamic/static with right/left hand from the obvious starting position... all good fun. Better counted as a bouldering problem than a route (i.e. finishing not worth it!)
fenclimb 5 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
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βeta: I thought the move to get to the top was the crux
craig h 8 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
βeta?
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βeta: I'd agree its more like 6a, seam to remember a crumbly little flake near the top.
Mark S Davies 7 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I thought that move was more like 6A?
βeta?
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βeta: I thought that move was more like 6A?
Ropeboy 6 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.
βeta?
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βeta: A "fierce pull" or a dynamic move to a good break. The top is tricky but not that bad.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 35
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Bouldered
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lime Street Direct

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)