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16m.

Rockfax Description
Start up a jutting rib on the right side of the bay, then stretch out left to ledges. Climb to a broken flake under the roof and make a long reach to the ledge above. Swing right to easy ground. © Rockfax

FA. Alan Clarke 1965.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50, ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage *** HVS's, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 3 Star Stanage, Stanage Wishlist, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), Stanage Popular, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, EUMC - Must do climbs, Stanage 'The Popular End, Orange Spot Heaven'. 12 routes, 36 stars!, 2020 Trips, Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3*, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Ryan's Stanage Popular Right?

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stuck to a Rock 7 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Confirmed do-able by the short
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Confirmed do-able by the short
Tysoe82 1 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The reachy bit is challenging for vertically challenged peeps like me. Good fun route though.
 
Show beta
βeta: The reachy bit is challenging for vertically challenged peeps like me. Good fun route though.
Paul Tomo 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route from start to finish, the wire placements are a little worn but with a 2.5 cam in the top right hand pocket who needs wires.
 
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route from start to finish, the wire placements are a little worn but with a 2.5 cam in the top right hand pocket who needs wires.
Duz Walker 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Lower crux goes ok when you summon the gumption to release from the sinker with your right hand. Top crux was not as reachy as I was anticipating. Felt well protected to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Lower crux goes ok when you summon the gumption to release from the sinker with your right hand. Top crux was not as reachy as I was anticipating. Felt well protected to me.
sheffieldchris 30 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: found the traverse move the first time no problem, the longest reach is standing on the middle ledge and getting gear into the horizontal crack above you before you move right to the good hold under the mantleshelf, which i had a epic on and ended getting through it in no style but lots of thuggery. Did anyone else find the next move off the ledge tricky
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: found the traverse move the first time no problem, the longest reach is standing on the middle ledge and getting gear into the horizontal crack above you before you move right to the good hold under the mantleshelf, which i had a epic on and ended getting through it in no style but lots of thuggery. Did anyone else find the next move off the ledge tricky
Munir Hassan 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first time I did this I didn't hang around on the scary crux - which made the move feel more like E1 since I was protected by poor wires below and left. The second time around I took it slower and had a better look around, and found some excellent medium friend placements below the long reach up - so for the level-headed its a solid HVS. And three-stars-worth of anyone's money.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first time I did this I didn't hang around on the scary crux - which made the move feel more like E1 since I was protected by poor wires below and left. The second time around I took it slower and had a better look around, and found some excellent medium friend placements below the long reach up - so for the level-headed its a solid HVS. And three-stars-worth of anyone's money.
MeMeMe 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route! I agree that the top reach isn't the crux because the layaway hold you use to make the reach is much better than expected and so you can get your feet nice and high. Nice technical route with just enough gear.
 
Show beta
βeta: Great route! I agree that the top reach isn't the crux because the layaway hold you use to make the reach is much better than expected and so you can get your feet nice and high. Nice technical route with just enough gear.
Si dH 4 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome. Theres a good number 2 nut at the bottom if you take the time to fiddle it in, but still the crux IMO. Top reach is easy for 5a off a good layaway hold, although the mantle is pretty hard - I was expecting it to be over after Id made the reach to the ledge and got a shock! Those top moves to the ledge look very intimidating from below.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome. Theres a good number 2 nut at the bottom if you take the time to fiddle it in, but still the crux IMO. Top reach is easy for 5a off a good layaway hold, although the mantle is pretty hard - I was expecting it to be over after Id made the reach to the ledge and got a shock! Those top moves to the ledge look very intimidating from below.
Albie 20 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A climb that is worthy of the tag 'A Classic'. It's all there in 16m of gritstone - the easy start to build your confidence, the delicate technical section, followed in short order by thuggy over-hang. Finally you are rewarded by an easy finnish, giving you time to savour the struggle. AND I managed to do it cleanly - though it was my second attempt.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A climb that is worthy of the tag 'A Classic'. It's all there in 16m of gritstone - the easy start to build your confidence, the delicate technical section, followed in short order by thuggy over-hang. Finally you are rewarded by an easy finnish, giving you time to savour the struggle. AND I managed to do it cleanly - though it was my second attempt.
leon 15 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: the bottom section is definately the crux though the top section looks like it is before you start making the moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the bottom section is definately the crux though the top section looks like it is before you start making the moves.
Tyler 22 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I must have been doing something wrong becuase no one else has voted for E1. The wire placements seem very worn and most of mine fell out, the bottom crux is precarious and you'd be lucky if the wire held.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I must have been doing something wrong becuase no one else has voted for E1. The wire placements seem very worn and most of mine fell out, the bottom crux is precarious and you'd be lucky if the wire held.
Nick Smith - Climbers 20 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: The large unattached block that used to sit on the mantelshelf ledge near the top is now lying in bits at the bottom of the climb. Apparently this makes the mantel move "a bit scarier", although still a 5a move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The large unattached block that used to sit on the mantelshelf ledge near the top is now lying in bits at the bottom of the climb. Apparently this makes the mantel move "a bit scarier", although still a 5a move.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 417
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 400
Votes cast 394
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Jester Cracks

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)