UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
Head up Inverted V for 5m then traverse right along the lowest break and make unlikely-looking pulls up the bulging arete. Once back in balance, finish up the exposed rounded rib. © Rockfax

FA. Don Morrison 1960s.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Popular , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 22 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Wasn't to be. Tried 4 times doing the moves after the traverse. Still not totally sure where you're meant to get up. Committed to the sequence after the mantel, very much on the arete, found nothing and took a big whip as the cam by feet in the shallow slot ripped. Expected it to be over after getting to and standing up over the buldge at the arete but maybe the holds were hiding that day. Still don't know how you're meant to do it lol. Wish gear after the traverse was better too!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wasn't to be. Tried 4 times doing the moves after the traverse. Still not totally sure where you're meant to get up. Committed to the sequence after the mantel, very much on the arete, found nothing and took a big whip as the cam by feet in the shallow slot ripped. Expected it to be over after getting to and standing up over the buldge at the arete but maybe the holds were hiding that day. Still don't know how you're meant to do it lol. Wish gear after the traverse was better too!
James Horner 9 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some difficult gear placements and quite run out at the top
Show beta
βeta: Some difficult gear placements and quite run out at the top
JMarkW 27 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Superb - but a gift at the grade, big arms not really needed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb - but a gift at the grade, big arms not really needed.
Si dH 28 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Dont know where people get 5a from! Soft for HVS and possibly top-end VS but either way,a very very good route. Almost worth 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dont know where people get 5a from! Soft for HVS and possibly top-end VS but either way,a very very good route. Almost worth 3 stars.
MNA123 15 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Very nice route indeed, one of my first HVS's last year, can remember my second pooing himself, and he was on the end of the rope!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very nice route indeed, one of my first HVS's last year, can remember my second pooing himself, and he was on the end of the rope!

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 91
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 86
Votes cast 85
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)

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