UKC

Rockfax Description
From the break to a shelf. 'The cornflake' is one of the holds. Oddly the same grade if you dyno it. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
Fraser kid 31 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Pile of shit
βeta?
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βeta: Pile of shit
ChelMurph 2 Mar Show βeta
βeta: I struggled to reach the right crimp so I went to the left side pull, foot swapped, and put my left foot where I started with my left hand. This gave me the added height to then reach the right crimp.
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βeta: I struggled to reach the right crimp so I went to the left side pull, foot swapped, and put my left foot where I started with my left hand. This gave me the added height to then reach the right crimp.
cwarby 24 Apr, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Please look at the topout beforehand. There appears to be a flat flake which I think could pull off at any time.
βeta?
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βeta: Please look at the topout beforehand. There appears to be a flat flake which I think could pull off at any time.
jelaby 30 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Based on notgnarly's beta: LH in the main break, RH in the best not of the lower break, RH up to main break. LH to cornflake. Stand up to get RF to a decent hol in the lower break (this is pretty blind). From this bridged position it's pretty easy to bring right hand up to the final crimp (no need for notgnarly's RH undercling) then climb to the top (ignoring the white lichen that looks like chalk...)
Show beta
βeta: Based on notgnarly's beta: LH in the main break, RH in the best not of the lower break, RH up to main break. LH to cornflake. Stand up to get RF to a decent hol in the lower break (this is pretty blind). From this bridged position it's pretty easy to bring right hand up to the final crimp (no need for notgnarly's RH undercling) then climb to the top (ignoring the white lichen that looks like chalk...)
Duncan Disorderly 30 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Must have done this 20 times and anyone who thinks it’s over 6C is probably on crack!!
βeta?
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βeta: Must have done this 20 times and anyone who thinks it’s over 6C is probably on crack!!
Fraser kid 15 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Can’t wait to send this, so I never have to do it again! Excruciating.
βeta?
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βeta: Can’t wait to send this, so I never have to do it again! Excruciating.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
New York, New York Sit-start

Grade: f6C+ ***
(Stanage North)

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