UKC

14m.

Rockfax Description
The axe-edge rib in the gully has a delicate layback start (just worth a star) leading to easier climbing up the broad rib above. © Rockfax

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Grit solos hvs -e3 , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

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User Date Notes
Albie 21 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The start is a high boulder problem with no gear. Do not attempt this if you are pushing your Vs grade. Lordy
βeta?
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βeta: The start is a high boulder problem with no gear. Do not attempt this if you are pushing your Vs grade. Lordy
Pythonist 22 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: See route description. Climbing the arete on it's left-hand side without the crack seems a little stiff for VS (especially the mantel to the top of the arete - scary!). The right-hand side is slightly easier, but what's this "almost" worth a star - very short, but very good arete climbing!
βeta?
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βeta: See route description. Climbing the arete on it's left-hand side without the crack seems a little stiff for VS (especially the mantel to the top of the arete - scary!). The right-hand side is slightly easier, but what's this "almost" worth a star - very short, but very good arete climbing!
fenclimb 28 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Which side do you climb this on? The left side seems easyer cos you can reach out left to the crack to stop you from barndooring or is that cheating?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Which side do you climb this on? The left side seems easyer cos you can reach out left to the crack to stop you from barndooring or is that cheating?

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 25
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lean Man's Superdirect

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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