UKC

22m. Start at the lowest point of the right side of The Great Slab, and climb a short arete to a ramp. Climb rightwards up the slab to a short, wide crack (peg). Gain a finger edge by a long move past an overlap (peg); then rock up left to a right slanting crack. Climb first diagonally rightwards then direct to a double bolt belay.

M S Davies, B Mullan 01/Feb/2010.

Ticklists

Pylon King Forever in our Hearts

Feedback

User Date Notes
oygrande 1 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, interesting crux move when you have the reach of a smurf. There is a loose block 1 meter above the tree following the crack along the route, it will come loose if it is pulled har sideways. Plenty of better holds around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, interesting crux move when you have the reach of a smurf. There is a loose block 1 meter above the tree following the crack along the route, it will come loose if it is pulled har sideways. Plenty of better holds around.

Logged Ascents

101 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staple Edge Quarry (Ruspidge West Quarry)

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 4 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 23
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 22
Votes cast 21
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Surrealist P3

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

Loading Notifications...