UKC

22m. Start at the lowest point of the right side of The Great Slab, and climb a short arete to a ramp. Climb rightwards up the slab to a short, wide crack (peg). Gain a finger edge by a long move past an overlap (peg); then rock up left to a right slanting crack. Climb first diagonally rightwards then direct to a double bolt belay.

M S Davies, B Mullan 01/Feb/2010.

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User Date Notes
oygrande 1 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Nice route, interesting crux move when you have the reach of a smurf. There is a loose block 1 meter above the tree following the crack along the route, it will come loose if it is pulled har sideways. Plenty of better holds around.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice route, interesting crux move when you have the reach of a smurf. There is a loose block 1 meter above the tree following the crack along the route, it will come loose if it is pulled har sideways. Plenty of better holds around.

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Guidebooks for Staple Edge Quarry (Ruspidge West Quarry)

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Route of Interest
Wurlitzer

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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