The North Wall

Ticklists: Ultimate E1 ticklist.

dprib123 20/Sep Lead O/S

Enjoyable, shame the interest goes down the higher you get.

with martin
Kirill 28/Aug 2nd
dmorgan27 08/Jul 2nd

Never sure if we were on the correct route. Didn't feel like E1.

gingernick 08/Jul Lead O/S

More like hvs. Not 3 star route. Guidebook description is horrendous. A big let down.

with Darrell
patrickcd 14/May Lead O/S
with Yura
Longsufferingropeholder 21/Apr Lead O/S

Found quite a lot of placements but they were all tiddlers

with Ed
Jimbob64 19/Apr 2nd β
with Derek , Andrew
Hidden 02/Apr Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Apr 2nd
Mathias Willerup ??/2017 -
Hannes B 23/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Tom
Hidden 06/Sep/16 2nd rpt
aiyer 06/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Interesting moves - tricky if you are a touch on the short side... :(

jsmcfarland 01/Sep/16 2nd rpt

Fun fun. Found it very easy this time. If it was better protected it would probably be one of those nails-hard Wye HVS's

with Tim
tim.fairhall 01/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with Sachi
Hidden 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Kevster 06/Aug/16 Lead O/S

No strong line to follow, guide book description is only useful after climbing the route

Mike W 17/Jul/16 Lead
with Legs
Legs 17/Jul/16 2nd rpt
with Mike
eduardo 10/Jul/16 Lead rpt

Think i'd done this before with Rob Turner years ago. But maybe not... So possible an onsight. Seemed pretty straightforward, few hardish sequences by the pegs near the start then easy, albeit a bit spaced with gear.

with Dave R, Ian W
julesmckim 01/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Rob led the main pitch - good climbing. I led a weird first pitch to get to the ledge, baffled to say the least. The Climbers Club South West guide continues to be unhelpful with route descriptions.

with Rob Smart
Hidden 03/Jun/16 Lead O/S
matthew.n.u 30/May/16 Lead β

First proper E1! Awesome route :D

Rob McGurk 30/May/16 2nd β
with Matt Urquhart
Andrew Sloan 16/May/16 Lead O/S

A better line than Erda.

with pete
MoWalker3 15/May/16 -
with Andy
steve-grigg 02/Apr/16 2nd O/S
with Wayne
waynekinrade ?/Mar/16 Lead O/S
Samcann ??/2016 2nd
greedo ??/2016 2nd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Cheese Monkey 08/Oct/15 Lead O/S

Didnt find this bold in the slightest? Great climbing though

with Ric E
Hidden 19/Sep/15 2nd
Eagertom 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S

A great E1, reasonably sustained for the first half but not too full on. Would recommend it as a first E1 lead.

with Thom Jenkinson
steve_gibbs 19/Sep/15 Lead rpt
with Liam Jones
mes32 12/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Moves are 5b if you're not tall. Gear is sub-optimal at the cruxes as well - I've certainly done many easier and safer E1s. Great route though!

with Adam
Hidden 12/Sep/15 2nd O/S
katherinesydney 05/Sep/15 2nd dog
with neil morbey
Alex Winter 01/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Pauline, Steve, and Tristan
adam 24 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Re climbed this as i jibbered up it last time. Still felt bold and a climbed carefully, but felt a lot more relaxed and in control.

chrisallan 18/Jul/15 2nd O/S
danbirkby 17/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Gordon
Kemics 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Found the route description really unhelpful. Hung around mid crux and had the description read out. Got there in the end. The hard climbing is protected only by rank pegs. The easy climbing has much better gear...but not going to be needed then

with Mike
kenneM 09/Jul/15 2nd O/S
with Caleb
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
3 Names 12/Jun/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/May/15 2nd O/S
LJKing 09/May/15 2nd rpt

Led Notung and Notung Forged in the past. Still a good climb.

with Paul Clarkson
CA1289 26/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Jack
Hooo 19/Apr/15 2nd O/S

Good interesting climbing all the way. Nice to second, as I could commit easily and there was hardly any gear to remove! Don't think I'd have enjoyed it on lead.

Chris Sieradzki 19/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Not *** really. There are no 5b moves on it although many 5a, some of them harder but never desperate. Really spaced and not great protection. Only way is up.

with Hooo
steve_gibbs 14/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Legs 14/Apr/15 Lead O/S

I have been wanting to lead this since it was recommended to me. I was wary about the spaced protection, but actually found more than I thought. Really good moves and really long enjoyable climb. Chuffed with the onsight.

with Steve
tim newton 11/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Rachel Slater 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
PaulTanton 07/Apr/15 Lead O/S

My first route on this crag. I really enjoyed it. Thanks Ken. It was so hot. The guide gives more description than route....

with Ken McBride
jsmcfarland 04/Apr/15 Lead β

Seconded previously 1 year ago but didn't remember anything about the route in particular. The route has fun moves on rock with excellent friction. The lack of gear makes it very bold in places, and routefinding requires care. The crux is very sustained, don't hesitate here! **** route. 5a/b seems accurate

with Uncle Kev
jon_gill1 21/Mar/15 2nd O/S
with chris Lyness
leigh 06/Mar/15 Lead O/S

Gave did give me guidance on gear and route. This was probably one off best climbs I've done! An enjoyable 40m that was interesting and varied.

with Gav
youwillfindjimbo 04/Mar/15 Lead O/S
DWebs 01/Feb/15 2nd dog
ian bryant ??/2015 Lead
pearson9596 ??/2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Sep/14 2nd
Chris Sansum 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Nice but I preferred 'Andromeda' earlier on in the day.

with Aidan Carlisle
Paul_southgate68 04/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Retro flash?

with Miriam
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
thomb 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Matt
chrisclimber 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S
3 Names 15/Jul/14 2nd
with Chris Moyle
Hidden 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
zcsharp 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
AngelaC 09/Jul/14 2nd
with Fred
Huntlyfiddler 09/Jul/14 2nd
bpmclimb 09/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Fred_Richard 09/Jul/14 Lead
with AngelaC
Hidden ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
08nbrierley 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with jamie
LJC 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
ben.richards 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S

not sure it's worth 3 stars but an enjoyable route. Grade depends on how much you trust the pegs at the start!

Roget 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with robin
Slick 08/Jun/14 2nd
Robin Nichols 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Roger
clmacdonald 18/May/14 2nd
tskelhon 18/May/14 Lead O/S
AngelaC 15/Apr/14 2nd
with Jeremy
Hidden 15/Apr/14 Lead
felixizzy 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
chalkiesurf 12/Mar/14 Lead O/S

Great climbing on bomber Wintor rock, even more run out than The Tap. Need small wires & cams

with Giles Cranston
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
jcw ??/2014 -
Ian JL 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Didymus 06/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Dan
Paz 29/Sep/13 Lead
with CC
fishinwater 29/Sep/13 2nd
with Chris W
Stone Muppet 29/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Paz
Hidden 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
mossrug 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
jsmcfarland ?/Sep/13 2nd O/S
MJAS82 28/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Duncan Turner 28/Aug/13 Lead
masa-alpin 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Protections in the lower part were not the most inspiring, thought probably OK. Route finding was a bit problematic.

with Dave W-J, Adele L
saraguti 10/Aug/13 2nd

2nd the 1st pitch

with Al
JHC 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

OK route but not sure worth 3 stars, some nice bold/delicate parts.

cameron_hall 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Led P1 of Nibelheim, and then the second half of Notung after James ran out of gear. Route finding was tricky, and it didn't really feel interesting enough to warrant the stars.

jacobjlloyd 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt
natalio 09/Jun/13 2nd dog

Great lead by Chris, who managed to pass the crux mid hight not seeing (at least he spent quite a while not using it) the crystalised pocket. It was hard, I did fall a couple of times.

with Chris B
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd O/S
puppythedog 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

My first lead of the day after following Al up Psychotic for the first. I clipped any peg that felt on route. I really enjoyed the route with some spicy run out. I agree with other's thoughts about feeling 5a all the way through but there was just one moment that stalled me.

with Al
leeoftroy ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Marder20 31/May/13 2nd
chris wyatt 31/May/13 2nd
with rich
richardr 31/May/13 Lead O/S
mes32 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with Wilki
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/13 2nd O/S
alexjz 28/Apr/13 2nd O/S
kelliroberts3 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
misterb 31/Mar/13 Lead O/S

i didn't really think it was soft for e1 and this talk of micro wires is fairly misleading as there was just two placements on the whole route.brilliantly sustained the whole way with a very serious start(if your belayer uses the bolt belay back and left of the start of the route and you walk round the back of the tress it will prevent a factor two fall)and a well runout but easy finish.quality!!

with wain
jcook1980 05/Mar/13 Lead
with Dan Moore
Hidden 19/Feb/13 2nd
Aaron Lines 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
ianto ??/2013 -
MikeLell 01/Dec/12 Lead rpt

1 move of 'French Free' pulling on a quickdraw I'd just clipped to a peg. I felt dirty.

with Dave
RileyJ 19/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 07/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with Helen S
rd20 02/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with David P
dprctr 02/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Steady and intimidating to start. Not HVS up and between the 1st pegs.

Stuart Johnston 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Superb. Small wires required.

with Luke Williams
adam 24 ?/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/12 Lead
just one more 19/Jun/12 Lead
with john smith
Kirill 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S
with Elise Belle, Charles Moreton
cem 09/Jun/12 Lead rpt
with Elise Belle, Kirill Spiridonov
1202alarm 26/May/12 Lead O/S

Very hot!! my feet were melting...

Matt Ray 26/May/12 2nd
Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
riddle 12/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jakub LMC
orbittman 15/Apr/12 -
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Justin T 18/Mar/12 2nd
with Cherry
Phil PBC 17/Mar/12 AltLd O/S
with Eleri
Hidden 17/Mar/12 Lead O/S
al99 01/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Mark Johnson
Hidden 15/Jan/12 2nd rpt
stuart34 15/Jan/12 Lead O/S
timtimpeggy ??/2012 -
bpmclimb 16/Oct/11 Lead rpt
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 16/Oct/11 2nd
andy dunn 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Enjoyable sustained 5a climbing. Nothing really cruxy, nothing really easy. Really enjoyed it.

with Big Ben, J
iforwms 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Herman
garywong 30/Jul/11 2nd O/S
GarethHall 30/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with burns
Hidden 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Fred_Richard 14/Jul/11 Lead

Nice and long pitch,great solid rock, not too hard for the grade i found, but bold between pegs.

with Caz
evhall 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

fantastic climb/position - but it is low in the grade and no 5b moves...

with Fletch
Hidden 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mattc 30/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
localboy 21/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Simon F lead

Hidden 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

More like HVS 5a. Not interesting enough for 3 stars. Maybe it deserves 1 star.

with Gary Lewin
Yanis Nayu 15/Jun/11 2nd dog
gb05 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S

scary and bold. Not great natural pro, but plenty of pegs. Amazing route!

joe_lancs 21/Apr/11 2nd

via first pitch of Nibelheim (Lead)

Stone Muppet 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Probably HVS if you clip the pegs in reach (well, about 1 move away) on the routes to the left and right. Nice climbing though not all that independent. Final cemented peg is really loose though there is other gear in the vicinity.

Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR dog
jimmatthews 02/Apr/11 Lead
with Nat P
Hidden 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
dts 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 25/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Paul_southgate68 24/Mar/11 Lead O/S

great route that just encourages you to climb***

with super gav
Andrew Abraham 19/Mar/11 2nd β

Goo lead Tim, quality route

nickwhimster 19/Mar/11 2nd
with Tim, Andrew Abraham
Tim Sparrow 19/Mar/11 Lead
montgomery81 ??/2011 AltLd rpt

Had a wee "watch me here". good route

Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
bpmclimb 16/Oct/10 Lead rpt

For photos.

with Mark, Clare
Huntlyfiddler 16/Oct/10 2nd
Mark Davies PK 16/Oct/10 2nd rpt

Forgot how great this route is.

Sam W 30/Aug/10 Lead
Hidden 24/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Macca_7 24/Aug/10 Lead O/S

The first half of the first pitch is excellent with enough gear to be able to relax. The top half is a bit scrappy with a lack of gear but better holds!

BeccaSnowden 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Best route I've led in ages! Delicate and bold.

with Tom
thomasadixon 08/Aug/10 2nd rpt
with Becca
will_benfold 27/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Mary, Emmanuel
danJBA 22/Jun/10 Lead O/S
jhawton 22/Jun/10 2nd
with danJBA
Hidden 19/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Paul Bowen 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Rebecca Hayes, John James
katherinesydney 19/Jun/10 2nd dog

knackered: did all the moves but couldn't muster the energy to haul myself up it without loads of rests...

with gary burgess
Huntlyfiddler 19/Jun/10 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt

There's a run out section (just one or two poor micros). If there was just one more peg hereabouts the whole route would be a more logical HVS 5a - I didn't think there were any 5b moves, just sustained 5a climbing.

with Clare
Hidden 15/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC 22/May/10 Lead rpt

nice to be back on the classic E1 lead at wintours

muttley_109 15/May/10 2nd dnf

too pumped after swansong prelude

with Ollie Burrows, Gary Lewis
Ollie B 15/May/10 Lead O/S
with G.Lewis
Paul_southgate68 07/May/10 2nd O/S
with super gav
Alexandre Buisse 24/Apr/10 2nd O/S

Fun climbing, bit runout a times and with small gear. E1 mostly because of lack of pro.

with Max
koalapie ?/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Herron 10/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Pete Riley
tobydunford 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
Trefo 10/Sep/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant and sustained.Not lethally bold, but there are parts where the wires are small and spaced, thats enough to sharpen your mind in such an exposed situation.fantastic.bloody nice weather.

with chris james
jacobjlloyd 16/Aug/09 2nd β
with Dougie
dswansonlow 15/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Brilliant first E1, though begining was more like a sport route...

Dan_Carroll 02/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
beardy mike 20/Jun/09 Lead O/S

A serious lead! The gear is small and sparse and a full rack of microwires is essential to avoid cerebral meltdown. The climbing is excellent but because of the protection requires your full attention.

with Matt Bengy
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/09 Lead O/S
hlegge 05/May/09 2nd
tcn_2002 05/May/09 Lead

Easy for the grade

duncan 29/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Toby Haughey
Hanski 20/Mar/09 2nd
dan gibson 06/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson, helen gibson
mikehenesy ?/Jan/09 2nd O/S

I told him to take my little wires, but oh no. Then I wouldn't have spent the freezing hours at the belay wondering which way to jump as he smashed in to the ledge. Cool headed lead though.

with Percy
Dale ?/Sep/08 Lead β

the pegs don't give good confidence thought good solid E1 5b

with johny
poey50 08/Aug/08 Lead β

Managed to sink three RPs so never felt that run-out. Good route but deserving of 3 stars? Hmm ..

with Rowan15
Rowan15 08/Aug/08 2nd
with DP
bpmclimb 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Clare
Huntlyfiddler 27/Jul/08 2nd
gdb4060 13/Jul/08 Lead
with Rick Sewards
MikeLell 19/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Mark Walter 11/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Sarah Joyce
localboy 20/May/08 2nd O/S
thomasadixon 18/May/08 Lead O/S

Great route and plenty of gear if you've got RPs. Never really difficult (although I wish I'd been tall enough to clip the first peg!).

Hidden ?/Apr/08 Lead β
Owen W-G 02/Mar/08 Lead β

Led after Andy. Good route, mildly insecure and uncertain but not as underprotected as the guide suggested.

with Andy G
Abi Chard 02/Mar/08 Lead O/S

First E1 and first route of the year!

with Ian
Hidden ?/Mar/08 2nd O/S
CarolineH 09/Feb/08 2nd O/S
with Dave and Joe
Bristoldave 09/Feb/08 Lead O/S

This is a nice route, but about 6m above the belay ledge there is a hollow sounding block, which has a crack running right around it. This block forms a hold which I was unable to avoid using. There is no gear between you and the belay at this point, and the fall potential is bad. Don't necessarily be put off the route, as it's very good, but one day I think that block might well come loose.

with Joe & Caroline
fatfingerz ??/2008 -
Dr Caterpillar 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Adam
simonf ??/2007 Lead O/S
Circus 16/Sep/06 Lead β
with Brad Tonks
Hidden ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jul/06 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/06 Lead RP
Dave Reeve 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Tony Payne
Hidden ?/Jun/06 2nd
Mark Davies PK 07/May/06 Lead rpt
with Borris
markfromstoke ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 -
tom.e ?/Oct/05 Lead O/S
pezzerrr 07/Jul/05 Lead O/S
al99 30/May/05 2nd O/S
with Rupert Rosedale
joe_alexander ?/Apr/05 2nd β

Little Gear

with Nick Gillette
Wil Treasure ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Not half as scary as it sounds, easy climbing, runout, but gear where it really matters.

with BrianS
The Reaper 20/May/04 Lead O/S
Billg ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Susanne Richards
chris wyatt 26/Mar/04 Lead
with barrie doyle
Hidden ??/2004 Lead O/S
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Mark Davies PK ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
with David Elder
Tim Steward 07/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Torran Elson
Hidden 29/Jun/03 2nd O/S
Mark Collins 14/Jun/03 Lead β
with Neil Henson
Neil Henson 14/Jun/03 2nd

Fantastic climb.

with Mark Collins
AlexRenshaw 17/May/03 Lead
with Ted Lister
furry 23/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Phil B
Ally Smith ??/2003 Lead O/S
markysums ??/2003 Lead
cem 13/Apr/02 2nd
simon kimber ??/2002 Lead O/S
Laramadness 24/Jul/01 Lead O/S
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/99 Lead O/S
mikej 03/Jul/99 2nd
with Steve Young
Hidden 22/May/99 Lead β
PaulTclimbing ??/1999 Lead
with Ianm, Trelewis gang, Neville, Woko, Neil
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Hidden 19/Jul/98 2nd O/S
Martin Bennett 28/Aug/94 -
with MT
Hidden 29/May/94 AltLd O/S
alan moore ??/1994 -

Excellent 4 pitch route.

Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
sdht ??/1994 -
mikej 26/May/92 2nd
with Nick Salmon
FATBOYFAT ??/1991 Lead O/S
JimR ??/1990 -
Marti999 ??/1990 AltLd
Hidden 17/Jun/89 Lead
AlexRenshaw 14/Jan/88 Lead
with Darrel Crilley, Dor? Green
Nigel Coe ??/1988 2nd
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 AltLd O/S

I led pitch 3 and Phil led pitch 4 as a finish to Great North Wall Route (Symplex and The Tap). At the time these 2 pitches were known as Bullfrog Blues I believe - pitch 3 was given 5a.

with Phil Windall
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 76
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set