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50m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An old favourite with good and varied climbing. The first pitch is generally easy, but quite bold. The upper corner is the opposite. Start at the toe of the buttress.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the bold wall out left then back right - care needed on this pitch with loose rock and few runners.
2) 4c, 25m. Jam and bridge up the corner-crack right of the arete. At the top, move out left onto the arete for an astonishingly exposed finish. © Rockfax

FA. F.Elliott 1933.

Ticklists

The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, UK Classic Corners, Peak Rock/4/ Universities,Teams and Clubs in the 1930's, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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User Date Notes
alex goodall 29 May Show βeta
βeta: P1 has terrible rock quality and gear. Basically feels like soloing whilst pulling on loose blocks and holds. Would not recommend!
βeta?
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βeta: P1 has terrible rock quality and gear. Basically feels like soloing whilst pulling on loose blocks and holds. Would not recommend!
WillRhodes 27 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Probably wise to skip P1 and walk around to the belay ledge from the descent path for P2.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Probably wise to skip P1 and walk around to the belay ledge from the descent path for P2.
PeteWilson 3 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: I lead the first pitch, got myself into a "don't touch anything" frame of mind and subsequently found it quite scary, basically a solo with lots of suspect rock. 2nd pitch much nicer.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I lead the first pitch, got myself into a "don't touch anything" frame of mind and subsequently found it quite scary, basically a solo with lots of suspect rock. 2nd pitch much nicer.
AndrewP 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch will kill someone one day. Second pitch is merely ok. I won't be back.
βeta?
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βeta: The first pitch will kill someone one day. Second pitch is merely ok. I won't be back.
Dohnny_Jawes 19 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Watch out for the crappy rock. All looks a bit poor to take a fall. Climbing not hard though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch out for the crappy rock. All looks a bit poor to take a fall. Climbing not hard though.
jb2006 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Nest in upper crack with chicks - probably Kestrel.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nest in upper crack with chicks - probably Kestrel.
buxtoncoffeelover 20 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: 20th April 2019 - Owl nesting (sitting on 3 eggs) in upper crack - avoid for a few weeks...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 20th April 2019 - Owl nesting (sitting on 3 eggs) in upper crack - avoid for a few weeks...
Stone Muppet 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch is worth avoiding. Easy climbing but loose holds and crap gear - deserves HVS/E1 4b probably. If you are foolish enough to do it, you can get some fairly rubbish opposing nuts near the left arete, also there is a rusty peg around to the left here (haha); then on the next ledge one good nut placement near the peg on the extreme right. Not done the second pitch (did the HVS direct finish which is protected and hence far easier, unless you're a 4b climber who wants to die...)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch is worth avoiding. Easy climbing but loose holds and crap gear - deserves HVS/E1 4b probably. If you are foolish enough to do it, you can get some fairly rubbish opposing nuts near the left arete, also there is a rusty peg around to the left here (haha); then on the next ledge one good nut placement near the peg on the extreme right. Not done the second pitch (did the HVS direct finish which is protected and hence far easier, unless you're a 4b climber who wants to die...)
Swig 21 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The first pitch can be a little loose. There is a pair of pegs along the 'path' that leads to the corner, suitable for belaying the corner pitch. When I did it there was a birdsnest in a crack - was unnerved by the rock squealing until I saw the nest! The corner is polished but the rock is more solid. Typical of the crag.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The first pitch can be a little loose. There is a pair of pegs along the 'path' that leads to the corner, suitable for belaying the corner pitch. When I did it there was a birdsnest in a crack - was unnerved by the rock squealing until I saw the nest! The corner is polished but the rock is more solid. Typical of the crag.
UKB Shark 11 Dec, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Take great care. Little protection of consequence and some dubious holds. I believe ther has been a fatality on this pitch in the past. The top pitch can be easily reached by the path to the side.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Take great care. Little protection of consequence and some dubious holds. I believe ther has been a fatality on this pitch in the past. The top pitch can be easily reached by the path to the side.

Logged Ascents

402 users have logged this
27 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 71
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 65
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Ten Craters of Wisdom

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dovedale)