Rockfax Description
One of the classic testpieces of the Peak - polish is no excuse since it has been slippery for many years. Head diagonally right with testing moves to clip the old peg (beware of runners in the undercut; they may appear better than they are). Move up to the break, swing up and left and tackle the upper crack past an awkward-to-place runner. © Rockfax
FA. Gabriel Reagan, Geoff Birtles 1976.
Ticklists
Extreme Rock , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , World Graded List , 50 cracks to Squamish , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E4 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Definitive *** Peak Lime , The Festival Of Shite , Best Before 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Ben Moon | 28 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: Bit weird, but someone has put another peg in Bitter Fingers. It’s stacked on top of the existing peg but so placed that it\'s quite hard to clip the pegs eyes and torques the carabina and pegs in a bad way. This is maybe why the peg has now been tied off with a sling. Not sure why someone has done this but it probably wasn\'t a good idea. What was wrong with the old peg? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bit weird, but someone has put another peg in Bitter Fingers. It’s stacked on top of the existing peg but so placed that it's quite hard to clip the pegs eyes and torques the carabina and pegs in a bad way. This is maybe why the peg has now been tied off with a sling. Not sure why someone has done this but it probably wasn't a good idea. What was wrong with the old peg? |
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| Ben Moon | 22 Jul, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Gear is tricky to place and the route has 2 hard sections which are not straight forward to read. Combine this with the polish and it’s E5 all day long. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Gear is tricky to place and the route has 2 hard sections which are not straight forward to read. Combine this with the polish and it’s E5 all day long. |
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| phatlad | 4 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Have to disagree slightly with Alun, don't head left it's a kop out. stick with the pumpfest crack. Great route really enjoyed it surprised that I have avoided it for so long, but I guess that's down to Stoney's reputation. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Have to disagree slightly with Alun, don't head left it's a kop out. stick with the pumpfest crack. Great route really enjoyed it surprised that I have avoided it for so long, but I guess that's down to Stoney's reputation. |
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| Alun | 16 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sustained, technical and slippery to get past the peg and reach the second break and okay rest. Make sure you head slightly left from here before heading for the tree, don't go straight up as I did! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sustained, technical and slippery to get past the peg and reach the second break and okay rest. Make sure you head slightly left from here before heading for the tree, don't go straight up as I did! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton
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Peaches
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Birchen Edge)