UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The polished curving crack and arete. Belay on the arete or continue to the Bitterfingers tree belay. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Moore, Geoff Birtles 1964.

Ticklists

50 cracks to Squamish , Peak District Limestone Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Punxneverdead 10 Jul Show βeta
βeta: 1st crack is mega polished right foot just slides all over the place and is pretty hard to work your way up from it especially if the gear has taken a fall or has been loaded. Get the legs up high then jam those feet in there to get away and up the arete. Really nice after that.
Show beta
βeta: 1st crack is mega polished right foot just slides all over the place and is pretty hard to work your way up from it especially if the gear has taken a fall or has been loaded. Get the legs up high then jam those feet in there to get away and up the arete. Really nice after that.
cragtyke 16 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Good tussle.
βeta?
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βeta: Good tussle.
phatlad 4 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Still in the doghouse after sandbagging the other half on it. Slippery and struggley but fun nonetheless. Hard for HVS
βeta?
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βeta: Still in the doghouse after sandbagging the other half on it. Slippery and struggley but fun nonetheless. Hard for HVS
Alun 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Positively disgusting. Those who like slippery handjams may appreciate it. Sane people would do well to avoid.
βeta?
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βeta: Positively disgusting. Those who like slippery handjams may appreciate it. Sane people would do well to avoid.
Nick Smith - Climbers 7 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Hard work! Watch out for the bird's nest on the evil polished jamming crack...
βeta?
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βeta: Hard work! Watch out for the bird's nest on the evil polished jamming crack...
John Kirk 12 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: A sound route. Always good to watch over-geared Southerners struggling on it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A sound route. Always good to watch over-geared Southerners struggling on it.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 71
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 71
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Robin Hood's Cave Innominate/Harding's Finish

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Popular)

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