UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
The long groove is a fine line with some interesting rock but the name is becoming more apt as the years roll by. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Just right of Augean.

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User Date Notes
MingDynasty 29 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Gear can pull out on upper part because of rope angle
βeta?
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βeta: Gear can pull out on upper part because of rope angle
nickcanute 14 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Descent is easier by ascending slope a bit then traversing a short distance right looking in, then down solo or abseil mineshaft. Ab station in situ
βeta?
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βeta: Descent is easier by ascending slope a bit then traversing a short distance right looking in, then down solo or abseil mineshaft. Ab station in situ
Neil Foster 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Great effort by nickcanue clearing the ivy from this long abandoned climb. Unfortunately he missed a dangerous loose block just below the exit, which nearly did for my belayer when my rope knocked it off as I scrambled, unsighted up the thorny slope to the belay tree. She managed to clear a lot more loose rock off from this point as she followed the route, and I pulled off further blocks as I abbed off. I think most of the loose rock is now on the ground, but be aware and take care on the exit. Also I suggest the next leader carries secateurs to clear the rosehips from the exit slope, plus a short length of rope and an old screwgate to leave on the belay tree for abbing. The tree is set well back, so try not to cross your ropes when abbing off, or it will be very hard to retrieve your ropes from the ground (though the krab will help a lot). If all this is enough to put you off(!), it shouldn’t, as this route is very worthwhile and hasn’t been climbable for many years....
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great effort by nickcanue clearing the ivy from this long abandoned climb. Unfortunately he missed a dangerous loose block just below the exit, which nearly did for my belayer when my rope knocked it off as I scrambled, unsighted up the thorny slope to the belay tree. She managed to clear a lot more loose rock off from this point as she followed the route, and I pulled off further blocks as I abbed off. I think most of the loose rock is now on the ground, but be aware and take care on the exit. Also I suggest the next leader carries secateurs to clear the rosehips from the exit slope, plus a short length of rope and an old screwgate to leave on the belay tree for abbing. The tree is set well back, so try not to cross your ropes when abbing off, or it will be very hard to retrieve your ropes from the ground (though the krab will help a lot). If all this is enough to put you off(!), it shouldn’t, as this route is very worthwhile and hasn’t been climbable for many years....
slacky 18 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Really good route now its clean, worthy of at least one, if not two stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Really good route now its clean, worthy of at least one, if not two stars.
nickcanute 17 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Entire route cleaned, ivy and loose rock removed July 2020
βeta?
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βeta: Entire route cleaned, ivy and loose rock removed July 2020

Logged Ascents

11 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stoney Middleton

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 2
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sorrell's Sorrow

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Curbar Edge)

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