UKC

Rockfax Description
One of the better sport routes on this buttress up the shallow scoop with an exciting top section. It combines three other old routes. It can also be linked into the last section of Little Plum at 7c. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A mish mash of 4 routes spanning a 30 year period now put together to create a very direct and logical pitch. Excellent.
By eliminating the first hard moves right of King of Ming the overall grade is slightly reduced.
Best approach is via one of the mini routes or traverse along the ledge when the slab below is wet.

(Various) link-up bolted 2014.

Ticklists

28 Decent Sport Routes , Peak limestone north graded list - sport

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeorgiePorgie1 16 Mar, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: My beta on the crux consisted of 14 moves. Latch the first crimp from the big pocket (always wet! so bring a small towel or stuff your wooly sock in like I did LOL! I found loads of paper stuffed in which is obvs pointless as it becomes a gooey mass...), clip draw, get left crimp, right foot up on smear left on a small pointy foothold, left hand far diagonal dyno for small crimp, left again for an even crappier downwards facing crimp, right hand goes on small crimp (where left was a moment ago), high right foot on first crimp below, tense core and go up for a big downward facing undercut/pinch, left hand on opposite good undercut, very quick shake out (chalk), then right hand on a decent side pull above, right again on another decent side pull (feet are now on right crimp below for left foot and a crap right smear), sketchy (and rather dynamic/core driven) latch of super crappy and stretchy side pull for left (full crimp side pull for my life! and screaming my guts out at this point as pumped out of my face!) right hand moves dynamically for a crap three finger open drag, swap feet on big, but crap smear, left foot goes on small black point/pebble, left hand dynamic move for big undercut/pinch (with fully stretched left hand so pretty hard to hold!), weigh left foot and use momentum to latch the crack in the bloc above large undercut pinch. Game over! :D Upper crux (6c?), entry move is the hardest, especially if you are 5.5 like me LOL! Had a very loud pulley pop on the entry crimp over two months ago as tried to fully load my right hand's middle and ring fingers... This time used index and middle finger while pinching with my thumb and it worked a treat. Left hand is on a big blocky pinch. A series of decent/big half crimps lead to yet another large right hand undercut above. From here a few very good cracks in blocs (used for solid laybacking lead to the final few slopers and a glorious clipping of the chains! WOW what a journey! :D
Show beta
βeta: My beta on the crux consisted of 14 moves. Latch the first crimp from the big pocket (always wet! so bring a small towel or stuff your wooly sock in like I did LOL! I found loads of paper stuffed in which is obvs pointless as it becomes a gooey mass...), clip draw, get left crimp, right foot up on smear left on a small pointy foothold, left hand far diagonal dyno for small crimp, left again for an even crappier downwards facing crimp, right hand goes on small crimp (where left was a moment ago), high right foot on first crimp below, tense core and go up for a big downward facing undercut/pinch, left hand on opposite good undercut, very quick shake out (chalk), then right hand on a decent side pull above, right again on another decent side pull (feet are now on right crimp below for left foot and a crap right smear), sketchy (and rather dynamic/core driven) latch of super crappy and stretchy side pull for left (full crimp side pull for my life! and screaming my guts out at this point as pumped out of my face!) right hand moves dynamically for a crap three finger open drag, swap feet on big, but crap smear, left foot goes on small black point/pebble, left hand dynamic move for big undercut/pinch (with fully stretched left hand so pretty hard to hold!), weigh left foot and use momentum to latch the crack in the bloc above large undercut pinch. Game over! :D Upper crux (6c?), entry move is the hardest, especially if you are 5.5 like me LOL! Had a very loud pulley pop on the entry crimp over two months ago as tried to fully load my right hand's middle and ring fingers... This time used index and middle finger while pinching with my thumb and it worked a treat. Left hand is on a big blocky pinch. A series of decent/big half crimps lead to yet another large right hand undercut above. From here a few very good cracks in blocs (used for solid laybacking lead to the final few slopers and a glorious clipping of the chains! WOW what a journey! :D
AnnJ 5 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 1st RP, after putting the the draws and checking the sequence for the crux. Very nice route!
Show beta
βeta: 1st RP, after putting the the draws and checking the sequence for the crux. Very nice route!

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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Brachiation Dance

Grade: 7b+ ***
(Water-cum-Jolly)

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