UKC

Climbs 122
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 370m a.s.l
Faces W

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Ed Brown leading Oedipus (E3 6a). © Guy Maccdox

Crag features

Lovely setting, sheltered and sunny. A long neglected trad venue now  transformed into a popular low to mid grade sport crag..

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for nesting ravens. This site is regularly monitored and fledging often occurs here by early May so the restriction may be lifted earlier than the date mentioned above. Keep checking this page for updates.

2022 UPDATE: the ravens have been confirmed as not nesting this year and the restriction has been lifted.

The start of Candy's Case is now a bit harder as a good lay away hold broke off yesterday at the top of the right hand crack between bolt 1 & 2 :-(
Christheclimber - 06/Jul/17
Candy's Case is now a bit harder at the start as a good lay away hold broke off between bolt 1 & 2........ sorry :-(
Christheclimber - 05/Jul/17
The normal approach to High Stoney Bank described in Rockfax is rather long and following the left bank of the stream (river?) is not that easy. Far better to strike directly across to the crag from the "lone Tree" (the alternative approach mentioned in Rockfax).
roger whetton - 02/Jul/17
First bolt on "Come On (Sport)" (aka "Come on Come on) is loose, needs a spanner.
Geofffn - 17/Apr/15
4th or 5th Bolt up, just before the break under the overhang on Paranoid Eyes has fallen off. Nut, washer and bolt unscrewed themselves from the wall, screw still intact in the wall. Just so you know. Its obvious when you get under the route.
Simmo576 - 16/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

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