(The Outside Route) A great climb and by far the best way up The Goat - if you are on the island make the effort to get this one done. The famous jump is now more difficult and dangerous than it used to be due to the wider gap and smaller landing area - it makes more sense to climb across.
1) N3+, 34m. Start at a worn area below the southwest arete of The Goat. Climb a short steep wall then slant left up a rib (or the easier groove on the right) to easy ground. Follow a horizontal crack out right and belay a little higher.
2) N4, 16m. The groove leads to a shoulder, then its continuation ends at a good stance.
3) N5, 30m. Trend left to the base of the prominent crack. Jam this, before moving right then back left to exit onto a slab. A little higher, cross the ridge to reach the huge terrace of Sofen (the sofa) and a super-comfy stance.
4) N5, 30m. Climb over blocks to reach the diagonal cracks that split the face above. The initial wide section is awkward, but then easier climbing leads to the base of a thin section. Head up this by finger-jamming to a stance on the shoulder.
5) N5+, 20m. The diagonal crack splitting the face is the 'West Wall Finish'. Make a hard start, then continue to the notch and a possible stance by a fat old peg. Traverse left across the slab to gain the western arete and finish up this to the tip of the Storhorn. Cross the gap to belay on the Lillehorn. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes
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