UKC

Rockfax Description
An unusual outing with the belay in the cave being the highlight. Start 12m right of Offspring at a slanting left-facing corner.
1) 4c 17m. Climb the well-protected corner to a ledge and then head leftwards to the cave and belay.
2) 5, 14m. Head out of the cave on the left (or emerge from inside it!) and make a short hard sequence up a groove to good holds. Easier climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the rightward slanting corner well protected. Easy climbing straight up leads to a traverse left into the large cave 4c

Exit left from the cave (or through the back) a hard move following the groove above leads to easier ground 5a

Nottingham CC.

Ticklists

Best of Symonds Yat! , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Indignancy 3 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: loose stuff near the middle of the pillar - be careful!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: loose stuff near the middle of the pillar - be careful!
Robert_H 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Belay from inside the cave - don't go through it and belay at the top exit of the cave - crux is just above and you're lining the next lead up for a factor 2 fall if they fluff the crux move.
Show beta
βeta: Belay from inside the cave - don't go through it and belay at the top exit of the cave - crux is just above and you're lining the next lead up for a factor 2 fall if they fluff the crux move.
PaulJepson 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There's potential for a marginal thread at the start of the traverse if someone takes up some 5mm cord. Belaying through the cave is not ideal if pitching but if you skip that part you're kind of missing the point of the route...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There's potential for a marginal thread at the start of the traverse if someone takes up some 5mm cord. Belaying through the cave is not ideal if pitching but if you skip that part you're kind of missing the point of the route...
SGD 24 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be a bird nesting in the large hole on P1 just above and left of where the corner ends and you begin the Traverse Left. I think it was an Owl but we only got a brief glimpse as it fled.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There appears to be a bird nesting in the large hole on P1 just above and left of where the corner ends and you begin the Traverse Left. I think it was an Owl but we only got a brief glimpse as it fled.

Logged Ascents

325 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 29 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 36
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

Loading Notifications...