Restricted Access
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
July 2020 update - The peregrines have left the nest on Strathdon - restriction lifted
Rockfax Description
An unusual outing with the belay in the cave being the highlight. Start 12m right of Offspring at a slanting left-facing corner.
1) 4c 17m. Climb the well-protected corner to a ledge and then head leftwards to the cave and belay.
2) 5, 14m. Head out of the cave on the left (or emerge from inside it!) and make a short hard sequence up a groove to good holds. Easier climbing leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the rightward slanting corner well protected. Easy climbing straight up leads to a traverse left into the large cave 4c
Exit left from the cave (or through the back) a hard move following the groove above leads to easier ground 5a
Nottingham CC.
Ticklists
Best of Symonds Yat! , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Indignancy | 3 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: loose stuff near the middle of the pillar - be careful! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: loose stuff near the middle of the pillar - be careful! |
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| Robert_H | 6 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Belay from inside the cave - don't go through it and belay at the top exit of the cave - crux is just above and you're lining the next lead up for a factor 2 fall if they fluff the crux move. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Belay from inside the cave - don't go through it and belay at the top exit of the cave - crux is just above and you're lining the next lead up for a factor 2 fall if they fluff the crux move. |
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| PaulJepson | 5 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There's potential for a marginal thread at the start of the traverse if someone takes up some 5mm cord. Belaying through the cave is not ideal if pitching but if you skip that part you're kind of missing the point of the route... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There's potential for a marginal thread at the start of the traverse if someone takes up some 5mm cord. Belaying through the cave is not ideal if pitching but if you skip that part you're kind of missing the point of the route... |
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| SGD | 24 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: There appears to be a bird nesting in the large hole on P1 just above and left of where the corner ends and you begin the Traverse Left. I think it was an Owl but we only got a brief glimpse as it fled. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: There appears to be a bird nesting in the large hole on P1 just above and left of where the corner ends and you begin the Traverse Left. I think it was an Owl but we only got a brief glimpse as it fled. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
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Tigers Don't Cry
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)