UKC

Restricted Access

UPDATE AUG25:

After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs.  This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.  

 Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive.  There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.

 Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.

28m. Nicely sustained wall climbing on good rock and probably the best line on this wall, although, unfortunately escapable in places.
Climb the pocketed wall 3m right of Pot and glass to reach a vegetated ledge with a bulging wall above. Move up and leftwards through the bulge (peg) to gain a good finger slot and jug . Make perplexing moves up a shallow scoop to reach two large pockets above and a welcome in-situ thread. Continue up and slightly leftwards passing the right hand end of the small cave of Pot and glass to reach another in-situ thread, just above the cave. Climb straight up the centre of the steep red wall and make a tricky rock over to reach a hidden sidepull jug above. Move left and pull over the slight bulge to reach easy ground and thus the top.

Mark Davies (Unseconded) 31/Jan/2009.

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Note for next time, from the good break above the shared ledge (up and right of cave) get a LH sidepull flake and reach right to a hidden jug. Clip thread and move to breaks and pockets over bulge.
Show beta
βeta: Note for next time, from the good break above the shared ledge (up and right of cave) get a LH sidepull flake and reach right to a hidden jug. Clip thread and move to breaks and pockets over bulge.

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Victorian Falls

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Nailbridge)

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