UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

28m. Nicely sustained wall climbing on good rock and probably the best line on this wall, although, unfortunately escapable in places.
Climb the pocketed wall 3m right of Pot and glass to reach a vegetated ledge with a bulging wall above. Move up and leftwards through the bulge (peg) to gain a good finger slot and jug . Make perplexing moves up a shallow scoop to reach two large pockets above and a welcome in-situ thread. Continue up and slightly leftwards passing the right hand end of the small cave of Pot and glass to reach another in-situ thread, just above the cave. Climb straight up the centre of the steep red wall and make a tricky rock over to reach a hidden sidepull jug above. Move left and pull over the slight bulge to reach easy ground and thus the top.

Mark Davies (Unseconded) 31/Jan/2009.

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Note for next time, from the good break above the shared ledge (up and right of cave) get a LH sidepull flake and reach right to a hidden jug. Clip thread and move to breaks and pockets over bulge.
Show beta
βeta: Note for next time, from the good break above the shared ledge (up and right of cave) get a LH sidepull flake and reach right to a hidden jug. Clip thread and move to breaks and pockets over bulge.

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High E3
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
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Votes cast 20
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kangaroo Wall

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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