UKC

Restricted Access

UPDATE AUG25:

After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs.  This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.  

 Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive.  There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.

 Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.

28m. Climb the slabby pocketed wall as for My Noble Son Seth to reach the vegetated ledge. Climb the bulge rightwards to reach a small cave and a good thread placement just above (not in-situ). Take the line of pockets above for several moves then step left onto the slim face with a thin crack (micro-wires) and move up small edges to reach the multi-trunked tree. Ignoring the easy crack on the left move slightly right and somehow tackle the tricky and poorly protected wall and slim groove above. Finish up easy ground.

Mark Davies (Unseconded) 28/Dec/2008.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 12
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tigers Don't Cry

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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