UKC

Restricted Access

UPDATE AUG25:

After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs.  This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.  

 Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive.  There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.

 Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.

37m.

Rockfax Description
Tremendous atmosphere and positions. Start as for Whitt. Follow Whitt to the wire thread and then to below the overhung arete. Traverse right and reach a ledge. Move up and left on to the wall close to the arete and work up the exposed wall to ledges and the summit of the pinnacle.
Descent - Abseil down to the col from a good spike of rock. © Rockfax

D. Jury, E. Adell 04/Jul/1976.

Ticklists

Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023

Feedback

User Date Notes
badgerjockey 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: No pegs visible where mentioned in the guide. Basically climb to the cable strop, go up and round it on its left and then horizontally rightward for 2m around the arête just under the bulge and over the strop. Then up and left completely onto the arête again to finish.
Show beta
βeta: No pegs visible where mentioned in the guide. Basically climb to the cable strop, go up and round it on its left and then horizontally rightward for 2m around the arête just under the bulge and over the strop. Then up and left completely onto the arête again to finish.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 41
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tigers Don't Cry

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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