Classic. Start under a corner/groove just right of the arete.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the groove with a move left at 6m and its continuation to a ledge and then on up another groove to a sloping ledge and large cable thread. Move up to below very steep rock and then traverse left to a semi-hanging belay under an overhanging wide crack.
2) 4c, 9m. The steep crack is luckily not too long and takes plenty of gear.
Descent - Abseil down to the col from a good spike of rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the main cliff, start on the far side of the pinnacle. Climb the face straight above the centre of the rocky platform.
2/3 of the way at the break where there is a overhang on the right hand side, go left of the 2 old rusty pitons to a small cave.
Go up the large jamming crack - maybe the crux - and to the top. Can also be climbed as a single pitch route.
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