Rockfax Description
Classic. Start under a corner/groove just right of the arete.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the groove with a move left at 6m and its continuation to a ledge and then on up another groove to a sloping ledge and large cable thread. Move up to below very steep rock and then traverse left to a semi-hanging belay under an overhanging wide crack.
2) 4c, 9m. The steep crack is luckily not too long and takes plenty of gear.
Descent - Abseil down to the col from a good spike of rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the main cliff, start on the far side of the pinnacle. Climb the face straight above the centre of the rocky platform.
2/3 of the way at the break where there is a overhang on the right hand side, go left of the 2 old rusty pitons to a small cave.
Go up the large jamming crack - maybe the crux - and to the top. Can also be climbed as a single pitch route.
Ticklists
Day at the Yat , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Best of Symonds Yat! , CUMC Ticklist , The Yat road to ruins HVS , Welcome to CUMC , YatFest 2019 , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Labergorce | 25 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: No sign of the bees today. Annoyingly left a grey alien overcammed in a block on the right of the belay, pretty useless as the block it's behind is loose. That'll teach me to quickly try to add an independent piece! Lovely route though, top pitch is awesome and took a massive hex which is always nice. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: No sign of the bees today. Annoyingly left a grey alien overcammed in a block on the right of the belay, pretty useless as the block it's behind is loose. That'll teach me to quickly try to add an independent piece! Lovely route though, top pitch is awesome and took a massive hex which is always nice. |
||||
| Pu11y | 28 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: The bees are very much still there. They are mainly over to the right hand side of the route, but they were also coming out of a large hole right by the stance mid way up. Docile on this occation. The gold hex is also still there and could not be retrieved. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The bees are very much still there. They are mainly over to the right hand side of the route, but they were also coming out of a large hole right by the stance mid way up. Docile on this occation. The gold hex is also still there and could not be retrieved. |
||||
| Mattress | 24 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: No bees. Gold torque nut left in-situ on the 2nd pitch. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: No bees. Gold torque nut left in-situ on the 2nd pitch. |
||||
| Steve5543 | 12 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Big gear for the second pitch flake | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Big gear for the second pitch flake |
||||
| JLT | 15 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: As of mid-September, can confirm that the bees are still there, and they sting. Probably more like 5a after a few stings | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: As of mid-September, can confirm that the bees are still there, and they sting. Probably more like 5a after a few stings |
||||
| ledarville | 29 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bees nest active at top of first pitch but they didn't seem too angry/aggressive and we gave them as wide a berth as possible. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Bees nest active at top of first pitch but they didn't seem too angry/aggressive and we gave them as wide a berth as possible. |
||||
| whoisjosh | 8 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Encountered the bees at the top of p1. They seemed cross which makes sense at this time of year as they'll be bringing alot of honey in. Best avoided. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Encountered the bees at the top of p1. They seemed cross which makes sense at this time of year as they'll be bringing alot of honey in. Best avoided. |
||||
| robertcunningham86 | 27 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: There is currently a bees nest just before you traverse left to finish the first pitch. They are a friendly bunch! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: There is currently a bees nest just before you traverse left to finish the first pitch. They are a friendly bunch! |
||||
| Rockchild | 15 Oct, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bees still nesting at the top of the first pitch - they ignored us but might be a bit of a stopper to some people. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Bees still nesting at the top of the first pitch - they ignored us but might be a bit of a stopper to some people. |
||||
| lo22 | 31 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb. Wouldn’t want to do it in two pitches though. Large nest of bees/ wasps (I didn’t hang around for a closer look) just above the in situ gear for the 1st belay. No sign of the geese or falcons however. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb. Wouldn’t want to do it in two pitches though. Large nest of bees/ wasps (I didn’t hang around for a closer look) just above the in situ gear for the 1st belay. No sign of the geese or falcons however. |
||||
| eastonator | 23 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Led P1. Didn't feel as hard as a VS but probably graded so for the exposure. Awesome lead! Keep an eye out for a falcon having dinner at the top, it wasn't too impressed with the interruption... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Led P1. Didn't feel as hard as a VS but probably graded so for the exposure. Awesome lead! Keep an eye out for a falcon having dinner at the top, it wasn't too impressed with the interruption... |
||||
| daveforey | 1 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Two very angry geese are currently nesting on the lip of the top out. You can avoid the worst of the hissing and honking by traversing left before the lip to belay on the blocks at the top of Vertigo. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Two very angry geese are currently nesting on the lip of the top out. You can avoid the worst of the hissing and honking by traversing left before the lip to belay on the blocks at the top of Vertigo. |
||||
| Jimbob64 | 13 Apr, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Geese nesting on top. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Geese nesting on top. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooksPlease Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Freedom
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)