UKC

37m, 2 pitches. From the main cliff, start on the far side of the pinnacle. Climb the face straight above the centre of the rocky platform.
2/3 of the way at the break where there is a overhang on the right hand side, go left of the 2 old rusty pitons to a small cave.
Go up the large jamming crack - maybe the crux - and to the top. Can also be climbed as a single pitch route.

Ticklists

Day at the Yat, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Best of Symonds Yat!, CUMC Ticklist, The Yat road to ruins HVS, Welcome to CUMC, YatFest 2019, Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)?, CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
Labergorce 25 Aug Show βeta
βeta: No sign of the bees today. Annoyingly left a grey alien overcammed in a block on the right of the belay, pretty useless as the block it's behind is loose. That'll teach me to quickly try to add an independent piece! Lovely route though, top pitch is awesome and took a massive hex which is always nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No sign of the bees today. Annoyingly left a grey alien overcammed in a block on the right of the belay, pretty useless as the block it's behind is loose. That'll teach me to quickly try to add an independent piece! Lovely route though, top pitch is awesome and took a massive hex which is always nice.
Pu11y 28 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The bees are very much still there. They are mainly over to the right hand side of the route, but they were also coming out of a large hole right by the stance mid way up. Docile on this occation. The gold hex is also still there and could not be retrieved.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The bees are very much still there. They are mainly over to the right hand side of the route, but they were also coming out of a large hole right by the stance mid way up. Docile on this occation. The gold hex is also still there and could not be retrieved.
Mattress 24 Jun Show βeta
βeta: No bees. Gold torque nut left in-situ on the 2nd pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No bees. Gold torque nut left in-situ on the 2nd pitch.
Steve5543 12 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Big gear for the second pitch flake
Show beta
βeta: Big gear for the second pitch flake
JLT 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: As of mid-September, can confirm that the bees are still there, and they sting. Probably more like 5a after a few stings
Show beta
βeta: As of mid-September, can confirm that the bees are still there, and they sting. Probably more like 5a after a few stings
ledarville 29 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bees nest active at top of first pitch but they didn't seem too angry/aggressive and we gave them as wide a berth as possible.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bees nest active at top of first pitch but they didn't seem too angry/aggressive and we gave them as wide a berth as possible.
whoisjosh 8 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Encountered the bees at the top of p1. They seemed cross which makes sense at this time of year as they'll be bringing alot of honey in. Best avoided.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Encountered the bees at the top of p1. They seemed cross which makes sense at this time of year as they'll be bringing alot of honey in. Best avoided.
robertcunningham86 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: There is currently a bees nest just before you traverse left to finish the first pitch. They are a friendly bunch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: There is currently a bees nest just before you traverse left to finish the first pitch. They are a friendly bunch!
Rockchild 15 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bees still nesting at the top of the first pitch - they ignored us but might be a bit of a stopper to some people.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bees still nesting at the top of the first pitch - they ignored us but might be a bit of a stopper to some people.
lo22 31 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climb. Wouldn’t want to do it in two pitches though. Large nest of bees/ wasps (I didn’t hang around for a closer look) just above the in situ gear for the 1st belay. No sign of the geese or falcons however.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely climb. Wouldn’t want to do it in two pitches though. Large nest of bees/ wasps (I didn’t hang around for a closer look) just above the in situ gear for the 1st belay. No sign of the geese or falcons however.
eastonator 23 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Led P1. Didn't feel as hard as a VS but probably graded so for the exposure. Awesome lead! Keep an eye out for a falcon having dinner at the top, it wasn't too impressed with the interruption...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Led P1. Didn't feel as hard as a VS but probably graded so for the exposure. Awesome lead! Keep an eye out for a falcon having dinner at the top, it wasn't too impressed with the interruption...
daveforey 1 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Two very angry geese are currently nesting on the lip of the top out. You can avoid the worst of the hissing and honking by traversing left before the lip to belay on the blocks at the top of Vertigo.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Two very angry geese are currently nesting on the lip of the top out. You can avoid the worst of the hissing and honking by traversing left before the lip to belay on the blocks at the top of Vertigo.
Jimbob64 13 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Geese nesting on top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Geese nesting on top.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 124
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 125
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)
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