Access Banned
USER ATTENTION from 09/08/2023
There has been a big rock fall. Inspections are taking place and the entire crag is banned until the work is finished.
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
Rockfax Description
The standout Yat classic HVS. High in the grade but with fine moves and plenty of protection possibilities. Move up to a ledge at the base of a long thin crack-line. Follow the crack up the wall to easier ground and a large block belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb on to the large ledge at the base of the crack. The thin crack is long, but featuresome, there are steep pumpy sections, but plenty of gear; a great route to hone your crack skills. After the crack proper, congratulate yourself to a well earned, exposed view up the valley before finishing on easier ground to a large block belay and enjoy watching your partner extract the gear from the choice finger holds. One of the best lime cracks in the country and a Yat uber classic HVS test piece.
C Milford, B Hocken Jul/1972.
Ticklists
Day at the Yat , Best of Symonds Yat! , The Yat road to ruins HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
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No Musketeers
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)