UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

32m.

Rockfax Description
The standout Yat classic HVS. High in the grade but with fine moves and plenty of protection possibilities. Move up to a ledge at the base of a long thin crack-line. Follow the crack up the wall to easier ground and a large block belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb on to the large ledge at the base of the crack. The thin crack is long, but featuresome, there are steep pumpy sections, but plenty of gear; a great route to hone your crack skills. After the crack proper, congratulate yourself to a well earned, exposed view up the valley before finishing on easier ground to a large block belay and enjoy watching your partner extract the gear from the choice finger holds. One of the best lime cracks in the country and a Yat uber classic HVS test piece.

C Milford, B Hocken Jul/1972.

Ticklists

Day at the Yat , Best of Symonds Yat! , The Yat road to ruins HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023

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Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 127
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 118
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bitter Battle Tears

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

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