Restricted Access
UPDATE AUG25:
After constructive engagement with Forestry England and the BMC the open access closure has now been removed from the southern end ONLY of the Symonds Yat cliffs. This includes Far South Buttress, New Orleans Buttress and The Final Zone.
Access is contingent on strictly observing the closed section from Introductory Rocks to Bowlers Hole inclusive. There are unstable sections of the cliff and contractors will need to access these sectors at any time until Spring 2026.
Please observe and respect signage which demarks the closed areas, and do not climb nor take access on foot beyond the signs.
Rockfax Description
The standout Yat classic HVS. High in the grade but with fine moves and plenty of protection possibilities. Move up to a ledge at the base of a long thin crack-line. Follow the crack up the wall to easier ground and a large block belay. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb on to the large ledge at the base of the crack. The thin crack is long, but featuresome, there are steep pumpy sections, but plenty of gear; a great route to hone your crack skills. After the crack proper, congratulate yourself to a well earned, exposed view up the valley before finishing on easier ground to a large block belay and enjoy watching your partner extract the gear from the choice finger holds. One of the best lime cracks in the country and a Yat uber classic HVS test piece.
C Milford, B Hocken Jul/1972.
Ticklists
Day at the Yat , Best of Symonds Yat! , The Yat road to ruins HVS , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , 23 HVS routes for 2023
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
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Organ Grinder
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)