Access Banned
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
Rockfax Description
An alternative to Snoozin' Suzie, although harder. Start at a small right-facing corner to the right of the through cave.
1) 4a, 33m. Climb the tricky groove and step left to the arete. Climb the arete to a ledge and then the crack above to a possible belay. Step left to the arete and follow it to the top.
2) 10m. As for Snoozin' Suzie. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Sleeping Sarah, 33m, Severe, **
Start at the extreme right end of the cave, at the overhanging groove and one metre to the left of the now crumbling Snoozin Suzie start (pictured in the guide). Climb the groove (crux) then step left onto the arete. Climb the arete to the ledge (good belay possible) and then the obvious crack to another possible belay. Step left to the arete and follow it to the top, finishing at the three trunked tree.
Great climbing and gear throughout, only spoiled by a little loose rock at the top. Every bit as good as its neighbour and a nice alternative if its busy, being only slightly higher in the grade.
The name is for my wife Sarah, who after joining me on many new routes over the years, passed away in unexpected circumstances in October 2019.
First Ascent: Graham 'Sven' Hassall and Marius Smith, 07/06/20
Graham 'Sven' Hassall and Marius Smith 07/Jun/2020.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Felix Ottey | 7 Nov, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good but not two starts good. Still pretty dirty and with some very suspect rock in places. Also if you do take the correct line to finish then you miss all the lovely exposure at the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good but not two starts good. Still pretty dirty and with some very suspect rock in places. Also if you do take the correct line to finish then you miss all the lovely exposure at the top. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Symonds Yat
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Central Rib Route I
Grade: S 4a ***
(Wintour's Leap)