USER ATTENTION from 09/08/2023
There has been a big rock fall. Inspections are taking place and the entire crag is banned until the work is finished.
As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall. Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period.
Rockfax Description
The dominating broad arete is a popular and exposed line that requires care with the rock in places. Start just left of the arete.
1) 30m. Climb well-worn rock passing a small overhang and ledge to reach a prominent crack. Head up the crack to a tree and then on up a groove to block and tree belays on the ridge.
2) 10m. Walk along to the next section of ridge. Either abseil/climb down moderate ground on the left (facing the ridge) or finish up the short ridge with care. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious well-traveled broad arete, starting just right of the through cave.
A Yat classic
D E Hope 01/Jan/1975.
Day at the Yat , Best of Symonds Yat! , The Yat road to ruins HVS , Welcome to CUMC , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Jonny's 30 for 30
User | Date | Notes | ||
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CharlieWilliams96 | 28 Jul |
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βeta: Mega loose big bits of rock! Be careful! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Mega loose big bits of rock! Be careful! |
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NigelHurst | 7 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: more than a couple loose blocks just past halfway, look like great holds, but no! take care. | βeta? | |
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βeta: more than a couple loose blocks just past halfway, look like great holds, but no! take care. |
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Susanna Magowan | 11 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Fantastic Route. Led pitch 2 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fantastic Route. Led pitch 2 |
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glaramara | 18 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: That big loose block 2 thirds up, is going to kill somebody 1 day. | ||
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βeta: That big loose block 2 thirds up, is going to kill somebody 1 day. |
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NigelHurst | 19 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: went left of first bulge, will try going right next time. would combine p1& P2 next time and mke it a 2 pitch climb | βeta? | |
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βeta: went left of first bulge, will try going right next time. would combine p1& P2 next time and mke it a 2 pitch climb |
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Professor_Professorson | 25 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: More exposed than it looked | ||
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βeta: More exposed than it looked |
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tonymw | 24 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: It was a bit confusing where the scramble down was and nearly went the wrong way. Care needed. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It was a bit confusing where the scramble down was and nearly went the wrong way. Care needed. |
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FergusNorrie | 26 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: There is a very large lose block just before the end of pitch 1. recommend not putting any gear near it. I went left below the block and then back into the corner. | ||
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βeta: There is a very large lose block just before the end of pitch 1. recommend not putting any gear near it. I went left below the block and then back into the corner. |
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smile youve won | 5 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Some loose holds about halfway up the first pitch on the right hand side. (If you\'re splitting it in two pitches | ||
Show beta
βeta: Some loose holds about halfway up the first pitch on the right hand side. (If you're splitting it in two pitches |
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Grade: VD ***
(Wintour's Leap)