UKC

Access Banned

As described in the 2010 CC guide, climbing at Symonds Yat is only permitted on the north-west facing cliffs - from The Introductory Rocks to the Final Zone inclusive.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine falcons have established a nest since 2019 on Strathdon, in the White Wall.  Climbers should therefore avoid all routes from Motorway Madness to Night Nurse, inclusive, during the restricted period. 

 

Rockfax Description
The traditional route to the magnificent summit of the Long Stone is a well-travelled outing. From a belay on the col between the main cliff and the pinnacle, move up right to a sloping ledge and then climb a short steep wall to another ledge. Traverse left to a groove (iron hook spike) and climb it to the summit.

Descent - Abseil down to the col from a good spike of rock. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The Original route to the top of the Longstone pinnacle (Needle Rock). Sports an ancient iron hooked spike in-situ runner half way up. Shiny but beautiful.

Ticklists

The Yat road to ruins HVS , Welcome to CUMC , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
springfall2008 27 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: From the path step around to the right side on the small ramp and then mount the ledge before stepping left. The 'hook' is quite good and can be clipped along side a small thread. Gear above isn't great, managed a small cam and a nut in a slightly dodgy looking block before the final scramble. The polish isn't really an issue.
Show beta
βeta: From the path step around to the right side on the small ramp and then mount the ledge before stepping left. The 'hook' is quite good and can be clipped along side a small thread. Gear above isn't great, managed a small cam and a nut in a slightly dodgy looking block before the final scramble. The polish isn't really an issue.
NigelHurst 18 Apr, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: try not to use too much gear low down as causes too much rope drag, one was enough.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: try not to use too much gear low down as causes too much rope drag, one was enough.
Mattress 21 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Wobbly block with inviting thread, just below the summit blocks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wobbly block with inviting thread, just below the summit blocks.
smile youve won 5 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Geese nesting at the top of the pinnacle, on the river side. Doesn\'t really effect this route, but may cause distress if climbing the likes of whitt
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Geese nesting at the top of the pinnacle, on the river side. Doesn't really effect this route, but may cause distress if climbing the likes of whitt

Logged Ascents

1529 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Symonds Yat

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 117
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 133
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
DWS
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Rib Route I

Grade: S 4a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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