November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
A worthwhile route on the final section of clean rock. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Outer Pit: Take a direct line up the slabby lower wall to a good break, take the headwall directly.
R Thomas M Crocker G Gibson M ward J Bullock.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Cjjones | 25 Jun |
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βeta: Good route clipping the chains is the hardest move | ||
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βeta: Good route clipping the chains is the hardest move |
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afshapes | 25 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Tricky to clip the lower off ! Pulled on a draw ! Nice moves though | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tricky to clip the lower off ! Pulled on a draw ! Nice moves though |
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Waity94 | 15 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Rock type at top is flaky and think holds have come off over the years, route is still doable with a hairy pull while maki g the clips, may unnerve a few climbers, all in all great route and crux lies on the final bolt | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Rock type at top is flaky and think holds have come off over the years, route is still doable with a hairy pull while maki g the clips, may unnerve a few climbers, all in all great route and crux lies on the final bolt |
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Grade: 6c ***
(Taff's Well)