Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
Climb leftwards to a point above a bush and finish direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Right of Once Upon a Time. Move right to join Palm.Regeared.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Marc Roig | 5 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A side-pull on the crux broke off as I was trying to climb the route. Since this was the best hold on the crux and what\'s left now is not nearly as good, I believe this changes the grade of the route, although I\'m not sure exactly how hard it is now. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: A side-pull on the crux broke off as I was trying to climb the route. Since this was the best hold on the crux and what's left now is not nearly as good, I believe this changes the grade of the route, although I'm not sure exactly how hard it is now. |
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| Clarkey810 | 16 Mar, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lost a large flake hold near the top, on the LHS. The rest around this area seems solid. Was a great hold, but I\'m not sure it really affects the difficulty of the climb, although annoying! Repeated after this hold was lost, seemed okay. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Lost a large flake hold near the top, on the LHS. The rest around this area seems solid. Was a great hold, but I'm not sure it really affects the difficulty of the climb, although annoying! Repeated after this hold was lost, seemed okay. |
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| myrddinmuse | 6 Jun, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very good little route, on mostly excellent rock. Partly ruined by the convoluted start. Makes you wonder whether it\'d make more sense to start from the left but hey. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Very good little route, on mostly excellent rock. Partly ruined by the convoluted start. Makes you wonder whether it'd make more sense to start from the left but hey. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Unknown Pleasures
Grade: 6c ***
(Taff's Well)