Restricted Access
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
Powerful moves on undercuts lead to a slim groove giving access to It's a Black World at it's crux. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Direct start into It's a Black World. Power moves on undercuts lead to a slim groove giving access to dark world black World at it's crux.
Simon Rawlinson 31/Jul/2018.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| sam hanks | 18 Aug, 2024 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed as caradog describes, but I found using the higher pinch at the bottom of prow instead of crimp better and less powerful through the undercuts and up to the good edge. Really nice sustained climbing. At least 7b+. I think 7c | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Climbed as caradog describes, but I found using the higher pinch at the bottom of prow instead of crimp better and less powerful through the undercuts and up to the good edge. Really nice sustained climbing. At least 7b+. I think 7c |
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| caradogr | 13 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: A couple of key undercuts have now broken on this line. Taking this direct is now far more difficult. It is still climbable by using a small crimp just up and left of big flat undercut, pulling into undercut with right hand, building feet then firing left hand to a hold on the prow. Probably hard 7b+ now | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: A couple of key undercuts have now broken on this line. Taking this direct is now far more difficult. It is still climbable by using a small crimp just up and left of big flat undercut, pulling into undercut with right hand, building feet then firing left hand to a hold on the prow. Probably hard 7b+ now |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Beati Silures Quibus Bibere Vivere Est
Grade: 7b+ ***
(Sully Island)