Restricted Access
Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 1 August
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all of the East Blowhole. (Routes; 'The Crystal Ozone', to 'Chiaroscuro' ). The West, South and East Faces are not affected by this restriction.
The route "White Knight" on the Landward face is restricted due to nesting Choughs. WHITE KNIGHT RESTRICTION LIFTED JUNE 26TH 2022
Rockfax Description
A superb route beneath the prominent tooth at the top of the cliff, sustained and but low in the grade with only a couple of hard moves just above the second niche. There are some good hands-off rests available but watch out for the odd loose block. © Rockfax
FA. C.Curle, A.Davies 05/May/1980.
Ticklists
100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Pembroke Goalz , 3 star Pembroke e1.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Anna Maykova | 27 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tried to lead 2 days ago, couldn't do the second crux on top of the route, gave up and seconded. Today came back to it and led clean. Still felt desperate. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Tried to lead 2 days ago, couldn't do the second crux on top of the route, gave up and seconded. Today came back to it and led clean. Still felt desperate. |
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| Neil Binns | 2 May, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I thought the rock above the 2nd niche was a bit blocky and hollow which is unfortunate as that was where the gear is! Definitely E1 | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I thought the rock above the 2nd niche was a bit blocky and hollow which is unfortunate as that was where the gear is! Definitely E1 |
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| Kyuzo | 28 Feb, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: I'd say the route is pretty much the opposite to what's mentioned in the description. Good rests, but one or two moves fell a little tricky for 5a. Maybe it's just me being incompetent but I found the gear a little awkward to place on this one. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: I'd say the route is pretty much the opposite to what's mentioned in the description. Good rests, but one or two moves fell a little tricky for 5a. Maybe it's just me being incompetent but I found the gear a little awkward to place on this one. |
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| huwtj | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Yep HVS 5a. Hands free rests in the niches and lots of gear. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Yep HVS 5a. Hands free rests in the niches and lots of gear. |
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| Chad123 | 25 Jul, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definately HVS, a couple of 5a moves with some amazing hands off rests between them and more gear than you could possibly want! Good though and worth a few stars. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Definately HVS, a couple of 5a moves with some amazing hands off rests between them and more gear than you could possibly want! Good though and worth a few stars. |
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| John Alcock | 7 Mar, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Cause of ferocious arguments in the Bosh between HVS and E1..whatever watch out for the loose blocks high up. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cause of ferocious arguments in the Bosh between HVS and E1..whatever watch out for the loose blocks high up. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Castle
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Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Heart of Darkness/New Morning
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Mowing Word)