Rockfax Description
55m. This enjoyable bold route follows the prominent arête at the right end of the wall, although climbed on the slabbier right side (The South-East Face). Start about 15m up right from the toe of the buttress where an obvious shallow groove slants up left to join the arête.
1. 30m 4a Follow the groove with little protection over a bulge at 5m, then continue up grooves in the arête to belay at the end of the large ledge which slants up below the corners of Gladiator's Groove and Ithuriel's Wall.
2. 10m 4a Climb the wall above, then continue up cracks to belay on the left at a block on the arête.
3. 15m 4a The crack in the wall above to finish on the terrace. This is the descent terrace used by climbs on the South Face. The wall can also be climbed on the left, overlooking the South Face.
FA J.Cunningham, Jun 1948 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the right prow of the face. Mostly unprotected, especially at the start.
John Cunningham 1948.
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Scottish Classic Rock , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , The John Cunningham Legacy , Scotland wishlist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| jackmorford | 23 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Needs a good clean. Quite a bit of lichen and greenery around. Otherwise a fantastic route. Fun to do in a single pitch. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Needs a good clean. Quite a bit of lichen and greenery around. Otherwise a fantastic route. Fun to do in a single pitch. |
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| StuartMyles | 26 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Block on the second belay felt a little loose 26-5-23. Can back up easily with wires to the right. Gear better than some make out. We left rope sling and crab to ab off. Scramble up a bit and you’ll see it. Can Ab right down to practically the start on 50’s. It’s about 46m to the far right corner where the buttress meets the short gully just right of the start of the route. Just watch the ropes as they run over grass and could get stuck. And stand clear at the bottom as small stones were dislodging. Well worth the trip though! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Block on the second belay felt a little loose 26-5-23. Can back up easily with wires to the right. Gear better than some make out. We left rope sling and crab to ab off. Scramble up a bit and you’ll see it. Can Ab right down to practically the start on 50’s. It’s about 46m to the far right corner where the buttress meets the short gully just right of the start of the route. Just watch the ropes as they run over grass and could get stuck. And stand clear at the bottom as small stones were dislodging. Well worth the trip though! |
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| Charlotte Whitmore | 2 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not much gear | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not much gear |
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| JoeCoxson | 10 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard to read, but not the moves, the description. Took the right (cleanest) line, but belayed in different places maybe- two pitches with a scramble at the top felt natural | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hard to read, but not the moves, the description. Took the right (cleanest) line, but belayed in different places maybe- two pitches with a scramble at the top felt natural |
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| Mike-W-99 | 10 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Enough gear if you look hard enough despite what the description here may say. Crux is the "scramble off" | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Enough gear if you look hard enough despite what the description here may say. Crux is the "scramble off" |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for The Cobbler
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Scarface
Grade: VS ***
(Overhanging Wall Area)