Rockfax Description
50m. (Photo page 57) A wild climb that still throws off the best climbers. Start in the recess of Direct Direct.
1. 20m 5c Climb a widening right-slanting crack past a large flake to easier ground leading to a slab and a block belay on Punster's Crack.
2. 30m 6b Up a slab and crack until moves left gain a ledge. Follow a series of overhung ledges rightwards to gain a good hold below the severely overhanging thin crack in the headwall. Up this and using a good sidepull on the left gain a recess to easy ground.
FA W.Smith, M.Noon (aid Pitch 1), 1955
FA D.Cuthbertson, R.Kerr (FFA whole route), 4&5 Jul 1979 © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
This was the hardest route in the Scottish mountains at the time of its first ascent. Originally graded E4 6b with a pre-placed nut, it has had few ascents (far less than Dalriada, for example) and has since been upgraded first to E5, then E6. In fact, it might be E7 which, if so, would make it the first E7 in the UK. 1.5c. 20. Free climb the first pitch of The Nook to a belay in Punster's Crack. 2. 6b. 30m. Follow the line of The Nook to the large ledge where that route goes left. From the ledge climb up and rightwards to attack the severely overhanging thin crack in the headwall. This pitch packs a punch, with bouldery power-endurance climbing and good, but hard to place, protection.
Dave Cuthbertson and Rob Kerr 04/Jul/1979.
Extreme Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E5 ticklist , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , My rock ticklist.
There is no feedback for this climb.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E6 6b ***
(Glen Croe)