The old railway cuttings on the east coast of Portland provide crags which get plenty of morning sun and also give welcome shelter on days when a cold westerly wind is blowing. Easy access, the spread of grades and it’s sheltered position make the area very popular and it’s rare to ever have the crag to yourself.
Climbing here you are very visable to the public and locals using the this popular section of coast path. Please be considerate and fiendly to avoid any access issues as you are climbing on private land.
Past complaints from nearby residents about the area being used as a toilet have caused some access issues. Please help avoid further problems by ‘going before you go’ or using the public toilet in Easton. No one likes having to avoid a minefield of discarded toilet paper and piles of poo, so if you really are caught short, make sure you shallow bury any solid waste.
The arete starting up the wall to its right. Climb to a ledge, then step left to ascend the arete direct, keeping well to the left of the bolts. © Rockfax
FA. Mick Ward 29/Nov/2008.
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